Page 323 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Rome

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  321

and chocolate. There are a baked pizza are avail able for the Pantheon. This bar offers
growing number of wine bars €1 or €2 – these are sold by a vast choice of fresh buffalo
across the river. Crowds at weight. Many of these places and cow mozzarella; eat it as
Enoteca Trastevere spill on also sell spit-roasted chickens it should be – unadulterated –
to the pavement outside, while (pollo allo spiedo), supplì and or prepared in a variety of
Friends Art Café is a quieter other fried fare. Forno La creative ways. Nearby is
venue with a reasonable evening Renella in Trastevere is one Ciao Checca, which serves fresh,
menu. When night falls, try the of the finest. Typical pizza tasty salads and pasta dishes
lively In Vino Veritas Art Bar at toppings include fig and ham with discounts for refills.
the foot of the Janiculum Hill. or potato and rosemary. At La Termini now has two good
Pratolina, near the Vatican, options for those waiting or
pizza with sausage, potato rushing for trains – the self-
Birrerie and truffle is a good choice. service restaurant Chef Express
Roman birrerie or beer houses Rosticcerie and gastronomie Gusto or Vyta (see p342),
had their heyday in the early also offer roast chicken and which makes up gourmet
1900s, often with sumptuous potatoes, as well as ready-made sandwiches to go.
interiors and abundant pasta dishes, cooked vegetables
stained glass. Although many sott’olio (in oil), salads, and Bars, Cafés, and
subsequently closed, thanks desserts – useful for takeaway
to their growing popularity with picnics. Many offer stools and Tearooms
most Italian teenagers they are narrow bars where you can also Roman bars are the city’s lifeline:
today undergoing something devour your purchases on the places to meet, eat, drink, buy
of a revival. Many British- and spot. Near the Vatican are some milk or coffee, make phone
Irish-style pubs have also of the finest, such as Franchi calls or find a restroom. Some
opened. At German-style beer (see p342) and Ercoli dal 1928. are small, stand-up, basic one-
houses you can still enjoy For a sit-down snack, bars counter bars for grabbing a
beer and substantial snacks with a tavola calda (hot table) quick cornetto and cappuccino;
in traditional wood-paneled have a similar selection, some may be more luxurious,
rooms. The Old Bear pub is a especially at lunchtime. One doubling as a cake store, ice-
jewel inside a 17th-century of the best is Volpetti Più in cream parlour, tearoom or
convent, with romantic Testaccio. For unusual flavor tavola calda;, or a combination
candlelight and excellent combinations, head to Pizza, of all these. Most open early
food and beer. Löwenhaus is Pere e Gorgonzola near Piazza at about 7:30am and close late,
bedecked in old oil paintings del Popolo. In the Galleria particularly on weekends, at
depicting typical Bavarian Alberto Sordi, opposite the around midnight or 2am. If you
scenes, again with low lighting Piazza Colonna, the excellent sit down you will be served by a
for a mellow evening. The ever Trevi e Tritone offers hot and waiter and pay for the privilege.
crowded Antica Birreria Peroni, cold food until 10pm. At busy times, or at popular
serving classic beer-drinkers’ Most alimentari (food stores) bars, the crowds at the counter
fare, is also well worth a visit or salumerie (deli catessens) will be large and you will have
for its local beer and lovely will make you a panino (filled to wait your turn. If you choose
decor. Attracting Italians and roll). Especially delicious are to stand you pay for your drink
foreigners alike is the lively Ma Lo Zozzone’s hot plain pizza at the till beforehand. A small tip
Che Siete Venuti a Fà with its pockets stuffed with choices (10 or 20 cents per drink) may
excellent range of well-selected from the store’s counters, where increase your chances of speedy
ales. Across the river in Testaccio you can also sip a glass of wine. service. In summer, tables cover
is the equally charming L’Oasi Try a typical local specialty if you all the available outdoor space,
della Birra, which also serves see the sign porchetta – whole and the fight for a place in the
good food. Other beer houses aromatic roast pig with shade is never-ending.
with a great atmosphere, food, crackling, sliced into rosette Traditionally elegant – and
and late closing times are The (rolls) or thick country-bread expensive – bars for people-
Fiddler’s Elbow, often with sandwiches. Made in Sud, on watching are the admirably
live music, La Pace del Cervello Via di San Giovanni in Laterano located Rosati and Doney,
(meaning “peace of mind”) or is a great place to try some as well as Caffè Greco, the
Trinity College, a favorite of delicious pizza. Alternatively, go 19th-century haunt of artists,
expats and Romans alike. to the hole-in-the-wall Er writers, and composers (see
Buchetto, where you can sit p135), or the carefully restored
down in (relative) comfort with La Caffettiera, near the
Fast Food a glass of wine. For a really Pantheon. Another popular
The term “fast food” in Rome typical Roman snack, make a and established café is the Café
encompasses a cornucopia late-afternoon detour to Filetti Romano, which is highly
of choice. The most prolific di Baccalà serving, as the name recommended for late-night
establishments are pizza a taglio suggests, fried cod fillets. drinks. Zodiaco on Monte Mario
stores where slices of freshly For cheese, go to Obicá near pulls in the crowds for its

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