Page 324 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Rome

322  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

panoramic views as does Oppio consumption by large gatherings a summer evening in EUR,
Café near the Domus Aurea. of friends or family after lunch. especially with children, nearly
For sheer decadence go to La The window displays of cake always ends in a trip to Giolitti,
Terrazza dell’Eden at the stores are often fantastic. These, a historic ice-cream name.
Hotel Eden or Stravinskij Bar and the aroma of brewing The strategically placed,
at the Hotel de Russie for coffee, will tempt even those crowded original near the
wonderful martinis or a relaxed who claim not to have a sweet Pantheon deserves at least
cup of coffee. tooth. The selection is vast from one visit too. Gourmet fans of
Tearooms are becoming a hot cornetto or brioche in the gelato should not miss San
increasingly popular. Babington’s early morning, a midday pizzetta Crispino, which offers home-
Tea Rooms (see p136) on Piazza di or savoury tart at lunch, or a made delicacies crafted with the
Spagna, serves an outrageously choux pastry or fruit tart in the best ingredients. Its zabaglione is
expensive cup of tea and scones afternoon. Cipriani (see p339), made using 20-year-old barrel-
in genteel surroundings, while open since 1906, has delicious aged Marsala. In summer try the
Di Qua’ is worth visiting for its biscuits, ricotta cake, and mouthwatering susine (yellow
desserts alone. Much better apple tart. Nearby Regoli has plum) and in winter, the arancia
value can be found at Green T wonderful mille feuilles and torta selvatica (wild orange) should
and Sciascia Caffé. For serious con crema e pinoli (pine kernels). not be missed.
luxury, you can have a full Dagnino prepares hundreds Adults may prefer to pick their
afternoon tea at the Grand Bar of Sicilian specialties every day night-time treat at Chalet del
in the St. Regis Hotel (see p303). while Boccione specializes in Lago, again in EUR, while sitting
Coffee fiends should try a traditional Roman-Jewish cakes. beside the lake. If you come
gran caffè speciale at the coun ter For tiramisù, locals swear by Bar across a small kiosk with the
of Caffè Sant’Eustachio, or one Pompi, which dubs itself “the sign grattachecche (most likely
of Rome’s best espressos at La kingdom of tiramisù.” As well as in Trastevere and Testaccio), try
Tazza d’Oro (see p106). Less cakes, numerous stores offer one of Rome’s oldest traditions –
familiar to tourists, however, handmade chocolates. ice grated by a gloved hand on
are the excellent Antico Caffè At some, such as Rivendita Libri the spot and enlivened with a
del Brasile (see p343), Bar del Cioccolata e Vino (see p342), variety of classic flavorings.
Cappuccino, Ciamei ,or Spinelli. you can pause over a cup of Try Sora Mirella, near the Tiber
Ciampini al Café du Jardin, coffee or glass of wine while Island. Equally distinctive are
with its garden setting and deciding which you like best. the fresh fruit cremolati at
rooftop views, is unbeatable in Café du Parc.
summer, particularly at the Gelaterie Everyone has their own
apéritif hour. Gradually favorite flavors and preferred
becoming the norm in Rome Ice cream (gelato) is one of gelateria, but the quest for
are bookstore cafés – Caffè la summer’s main delights and at perfection is an ongoing
Feltrinelli and Bibliotèq are two Rome’s ice-cream parlors, you pleasure. For top zabaglione,
examples – and museum cafés. are certainly in for a lavish treat. try Fiocco di Neve, Giolitti of
The Caffetteria Bistrot al Look for the word artigianale, Via Vespucci or Petrini dal 1926.
Chiostro del Bramante is in an if you want to savor the best. Palazzo del Freddo makes an
art gallery on the upper loggia The choice is endless – water- exceptionally wonderful rice
of a beautiful cloister. The bar ices made with a phenomenal pudding flavor and its own
at the Capitoline Museums has variety of fruit; lemon and coffee La Caterinetta – one of the
breathtaking views if average granite (crushed ice); as well as secret ingredients is honey. Al
food, while the café in the more exotic ice-cream flavors Settimo Gelo, a witty play on
Palazzo delle Esposizioni (see such as rice pudding, zuppa words (settimo is seventh, cielo
p166) is open throughout the inglese (English trifle), zabaglione is heaven and gelo is ice),
day with an attractive selection and tiramisù. Choose as many creates exciting chestnut sorbet,
of snacks and drinks. varieties as the size of your chocolate with peperoncino,
cone or cup will hold, ask for ginger, and ice cream made
an optional topping of whipped from Greek yogurt. For those
Pasticcerie cream (panna) and go for a with dairy allergies, visit the
On Sunday mornings you will sensation-filled stroll. Or take Sicilian gelateria, Gelarmony,
often see the Romans emerging a seat and rest awhile – you will which also uses soy milk
from the local pastry store or be served an obscenely sized and has 14 different flavors
pasticceria with a beautifully creation at the table (at a price). on offer. At Fior di Luna in
wrapped package. This can Gelaterie are open all day, many Trastevere, all ingredients are
contain dainty individual until late at night, and are an organic. Excellent ingredients
pastries, whole cakes or tarts, integral part of Roman socializing. also distinguish Fattori,
traditional Easter colombe Tre Scalini in Piazza Navona is located in the hip Pigneto
(doves), or the Christmas a famous spot for enjoying neighborhood, and the
panettoni – huge cakes with the pricey, yet so heavenly, more central branches
raisins and candied peel – all for chocolate tartufo (truffle), while of GROM.

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