Page 171 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - London
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SMITHFIELD  AND  SPIT ALFIELDS      169


       5 St Bartholomew-   a finely decorated plaster
       the-Great           ceiling, a rich brown wooden
                           organ case and galleries, and
       West Smithfield EC1. Map 6 F5. Tel 020   an oak pulpit resting on a
       7600 0440. 1 Barbican. Open   carved palm tree. The original
       8:30am–5pm Mon–Fri (to 4pm mid-  box pews have been kept in
       Nov–mid-Feb), 10:30am– 4pm Sat,   the galleries rather than in the
       8:30am–8pm Sun. Closed Christmas
       week. 5 9am, 11am, 6:30pm Sun. &   body of the church. Some of
       7 8 by appt. - = Concerts.   the memorials come from a
       ∑ greatstbarts.com  14th-century church that
                           originally existed on the site.
       One of London’s oldest churches,    The former churchyard
       St Bart's was founded in 1123 by   alongside was converted in
       the monk Rahere, whose tomb is   1880 into a green space known
       inside. A courtier of Henry I, he   as Postman’s Park, because it
       dreamed that the saint saved   was used by workers from the
       him from a winged monster.  nearby Post Office headquarters.
         The 13th-century arch used to  In the late 19th century, the
       be the door to the church until   Victorian artist G F Watts
       the nave of that earlier building   dedicated one of the walls to a
       was pulled down when Henry   quirky collection of plaques that
       VIII dissolved the priory.   commemorate people – often
         Today the arch leads from   children – who sacrificed their
       West Smithfield to the burial   lives to save others. Each is
       ground; the gatehouse above it   remembered on a hand-painted   St Bartholomew’s gatehouse
       is from a later period. The present  tile. There are three St Botolph
       building retains the crossing and   churches in the City; the other   badly damaged by a World
       chancel of the original, with its   two can be found at Aldgate   War II bomb that only the
       round arches and other fine   and in Bishopsgate.  tower survived. St Giles was
       Norman detailing. There are also        refurbished during the 1950s to
       some fine Tudor monuments. In           serve as the parish church of
       the south transept is a shining   8 St Giles,   the Barbican, and now stands
       gilded statue of St Bartholomew   Cripplegate   awkwardly amidst the stark
       by Damien Hirst                         modernity of the area. It is one
         Parts of the church have been   Fore St EC2. Map 7 A5. Tel 020 7638   of the few UK churches to
       used for secular purposes. In   1997. 1 Barbican, Moorgate. Open   boast two complete organs.
       1725, US statesman Benjamin   11am–4pm Mon–Fri. 5 8am Mon–Fri,      Here, Oliver Cromwell
       Franklin worked for a printer    8am, 10am & 4pm Sun. 8 2–5pm   married Elizabeth Bourchier in
                           Tue. 7 ∑ stgilescripplegate.co.uk
       in the Lady Chapel. The church          1620 and the poet John Milton
       also featured in the films Four         was buried in 1674. Well-
       Weddings and a Funeral,   Completed in 1550, this church   preserved remains of London’s
       Shakespeare in Love and The   survived the ravages of the    Roman and medieval walls can
       Other Boleyn Girl. The café in    Great Fire in 1666, but was so   be seen to the south.
       the cloisters is a peaceful spot.
       6 Museum of
       London
       See pp170–71.

       7 St Botolph,
       Aldersgate
       Aldersgate St EC1. Map 15 A1.
       Tel 020 7283 1670. 1 St Paul’s,
       Barbican, Moorgate. Open 9am–3pm
       Mon–Fri. 5 1pm Tue & Thu, 10:30am
       Sun. 7
       A modest late Georgian exterior
       (completed in the late 18th
       century) conceals a flamboyant,
       well-preserved interior with    St Giles, Cripplegate




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