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330      TR A VELLERS ’  NEEDS

       Markets

       For eye-catching displays of wonderful food and a lively   Marché d’Aligre
       atmosphere, there is no better place to shop than a Paris   (See p237.)
       market. There are large covered food markets; markets where   Built in 1779, this lively covered
                                               market is one of the cheapest in the
       stalls change regularly; and permanent street markets with a   city. Here, traders hawk ingredients
       mixture of shops and stalls which are open on a daily basis.   such as North African olives,
       Each has its own personality reflecting the area in which it is   groundnuts and hot peppers and
                                               there are even a few halal butchers.
       located. A list of some of the more famous markets, with   The noise reaches a crescendo at
       approximate opening times, follows. For a complete list of   weekends when the cries of the
       markets, contact the Paris Office du Tourisme (see p359). And   market boys mingle with those of
                                               militants of all political persuasions
       while you’re enjoying browsing round the stalls, remember to   as the latter petition and protest in
       keep an eye on your purse. Bargaining is not automatic, but   the Place d’Aligre. The stalls on the
       you might be able to negotiate near closing time.  square sell mostly second-hand
                                               clothes and bric-à-brac. This is a
                                               trendy, Bohemian area of town with
       Fruit and Vegetable   Flea Markets      few tourists and many Parisians.
       Markets
                           It’s often said that you can no
       The French treat food with the   longer find bargains at the Paris   Rue Cler
       kind of reverence usually   flea markets. Though this may   (See p192.)
       reserved for religion. Many    be true, it’s still worth going    This high-class, pedestrianized food
       still shop on a daily basis to be   to one for the sheer fun of   market is patronized mainly by the
       sure of buying the freshest   browsing. And bear in mind that   politicians and captains of industry
       produce possible, so food   the price quoted is not the one   who live and work in the vicinity, so
                                               it’s good for people-spotting! The
       markets tend to be busy. The   that you are expected to pay – it   produce is excellent – there’s a
       majority of fruit and vegetable   is general ly assumed that you   Breton delicatessen and some
       markets are open from around   will bargain. Most flea markets   good fromageries.
       8am to 1pm and from 4pm to   are located on the city’s bound-
       7pm Tuesday to Saturday, and   aries. Whether you pick up any
       from 9am to 1pm Sunday.  real bargains has as much to do   Marché des Enfant Rouges
         Buy produce loose rather than  with luck as with judge ment,   39 Rue de Bretagne 75003. Map 14 D2.
       in boxes, but keep a close eye   and may depend on whether   q Temple, Filles-du-Calvaire.
       on what the stallholder puts in   the seller knows the true value   Open 8.30am–1pm & 4–7.30pm Tue–
       your bag. Most outdoor stalls   of their goods. The biggest,   Sat (to 8pm Fri, Sat); 8.30am–2pm Sun.
       prefer to serve you rather than   busiest and most famous   This long-established, charming fruit
       allow you to handle the   market, incor porating several   and vegetable market on the Rue de
                                               Bretagne is part covered, part
       produce yourself, but don’t be   smaller specialist ones, is the   outdoors and dates from 1620. The
       afraid to point to the individual   Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen.   produce is famous for its freshness,
       fruit and vegetables of your   Be sure to keep your eye on   and there are cheap eateries too. On
       choice. Your connoisseurship   your wallet, as pickpockets   Sunday mornings, there are sometimes
       will be respected. A little   frequent these markets.  street performers and accordionists.
       language is useful for specifying
       pas trop mur (not too ripe),            Marché aux Fleurs
       or pour manger ce soir (to be   Specialist Markets  Madeleine
       eaten tonight). If you go to the   Try the Marché aux Fleurs   Pl de la Madeleine 75008.
       same market every day, you’ll   Madeleine, the Marché aux   Map 5 C5. q Madeleine.
       become familiar to the stall   Fleurs Reine Elizabeth II (see p87)   Open 8am–7.30pm Mon–Sat.
       holders and will be less likely    or the Marché aux Fleurs Ternes
       to be fobbed off with the   in the Champs-Elysées district    Marché aux Fleurs Ternes
       occasional “reject” fruit or   for fresh flowers. On the Ile de    Pl des Ternes 75017. Map 4 E3.
                                               q Ternes. Open 8am–7.30pm
       vegetable. You will also get to   la Cité on Sundays, the Marché
       know the stalls worth buying   aux Oiseaux bird market    Tue–Sun.
       from and the produce worth   replaces the flower market.   Marché St-Pierre
       buying. Seasonal fruit and   Stamp collectors will enjoy the   Pl St-Pierre 75018. Map 6 F1.
                            permanent Marché aux Timbres,
       vegetables are, of course,   where you can also buy old    q Anvers. Open 10am–6.30pm
       usually a good buy, tending to   post cards. In Montmartre, the   Mon–Fri, 10am–7pm Sat.
       be fresher and cheaper than at   the large Marché St-Pierre,   Marché aux Timbres
       other times of the year. Finally,    spread over six floors, is famous   Ave Marigny 75008. Map 5 B5.
       it is best to shop at markets   for inexpensive fabrics and is   q Champs-Elysées–Clemenceau.
       early in the day when the    patronized by professional   Open 9am–7pm Thu, Sat, Sun &
       food is freshest and the    designers and dressmakers.   public hols.
       queues are shortest.


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