Page 333 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Paris
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SHOPS  AND  M ARKE T S      331

       Marché Joinville    Rue Poncelet        packed with stalls. Some of them are
       Corner of Rue Jomard and Rue de   75017. Map 4 E3. q Ternes.    very upmarket, others sell junk. The
       Joinville 75019. q Crimée.    Open 8am–1pm & 3–7.30pm    flea market is a 10–15-minute walk
       Open 7am–2.30pm Thu & Sun.  Tue–Sat, 8am–1pm Sun.  from Clignancourt Metro – don’t be
       This lively canalside market is known   The Rue Poncelet food market is   put off by the somewhat sleazy
                                               Marché Malik which you have to
       for its cheap fruit and vegetables. It is   situated away from the main tourist   pass through on your way from the
       situated on the Canal d’Ourcq, near   areas of Paris but is worth visiting for   Metro. A Guide des Puces (guide to
       the Parc de la Villette, and is always   its authentic French atmosphere.   the flea markets) can be obtained
       teeming with shoppers.  Choose from the many bakeries,   from the information kiosk in the
                           pâtisseries and charcuteries or enjoy   Marché Biron on the Rue des Rosiers.
       Marché St-Germain   authentic Auvergne speciali ties from   The more exclusive markets will take
                           Aux Fermes d’Auvergnes.  credit cards and arrange for goods to
       4–6 Rue Lobineau 75006. Map 12 E4.      be shipped home. New stock arrives
       q Mabillon. Open 8am–1pm &              on Friday, the day when pro-
       4–8pm Tue–Fri; 8.30am–1.30pm &    Marché aux Puces de la   fessionals come from all over the
       3.30–8pm Sat; 8am–1.30pm Sun.  Porte de Vanves  world to sweep up the best buys.
       St-Germain is one of the few covered   Ave Georges-Lafenestre & Ave Marc-     Among the markets here, the
       markets left in Paris and has been   Sangnier 75014. q Porte-de-Vanves.   Marché Jules Vallès is good for turn-
       enhanced by renovation. The smart   Open 7am–2pm Sat & Sun.  of-the-19th-century objets d’art.
       arcade surrounding it is home to        Marché Paul-Bert is more expensive,
       some glossy foreign names – an   Porte de Vanves is a small market   but charming. Items on sale include
       Apple store, Marks & Spencer – and   selling good-quality bric-à-brac and   furniture, books and prints. Both
       the market fare is cosmopolitan too,   junk as well as some second-hand   markets deal in second-hand goods
       with Italian, Mexican, Greek and   furniture. It’s best to get to the market   rather than antiques.
       Asian offerings alongside the top-  early on Saturday morning for the      In a different league, Marché Biron
       notch French produce.  best choice of wares. Artists exhibit   sells elegant, expensive antique
                           nearby in the Place des Artistes.
                                               furniture of very high quality. Marché
       Rue de Lévis                            Vernaison is the oldest and biggest
       75017. Map 5 B2. q Villiers. Open   Marché Président-Wilson  market, good for collectables such as
                                               jewellery as well as lamps and
       10am–7.30pm Tue–Sat, 10am–1pm Sun.  Situated in Ave du Président-Wilson,   clothes. No information about the
       Rue de Lévis is a bustling, popular   between Pl d’Iéna & Rue Debrousse   Marché aux Puces is complete
       food market near the Parc Monceau   75016. Map 10 D1. q Alma-Marceau.   without mentioning Chez Louisette
       with a number of good pâtisseries,   Open 7am–2.30pm Wed, 7am–   in the Vernaison market. This café is
       an excellent cheese delicatessen and   3pm Sat.  always full of locals enjoying the
       a charcuterie known for its savoury   This very chic food market on Avenue   home cooking and the well-
       pies. The part of the street that leads   Président-Wilson is close to the Musée   intentioned renditions of Edith Piaf
       to Rue Legendre sells haber dashery   d’Art Moderne and the Palais Galliera   songs. Marché Cambo is a fairly small
       and fabrics. The shops on this   fashion museum. It has become   market with beautifully displayed
       pedestrian ized street also have stalls   important because there are no other   antique furniture. Marché Serpette is
       outside selling their wares.
                           food shops nearby. It is best for meat.  popular with the dealers: everything
                                               sold here is in mint condition.
       Rue Montorgueil     Marché aux Puces de
       75001 & 75002. Map 13 A1. q Les   Montreuil  Marché Raspail
       Halles. Open 10am–6pm Mon–Sat,   Porte de Montreuil, 93 Montreuil 75020.   Situated on Blvd Raspail between
       am only Sun (subject to change).  q Mairie de Montreuil.    Rue du Cherche-Midi & Rue de
       The Rue Montorgueil is what   Open 7am–7.30pm Mon, Sat & Sun.  Rennes 75006. Map 12 D5.
       remains of the old Les Halles market.   q Rennes. Open 7am–2.30pm
       The street has been repaved and   Go early to the Porte de Montreuil   Tue, Fri, 9am–2pm Sun.
                           flea market, where you’ll have a
       restored to its former glory. Here, you   The Raspail market sells typical
       can buy exotic produce like green   better chance of picking up a   French groceries as well as
                           bargain. The substantial second-
       bananas and yams from the market        Portuguese produce on Tuesdays
       gardeners’ stalls, and sample delicious   hand clothes section attracts    and Fridays. But Sunday is the day
       offerings from the delicatessens or   many young people. There’s also    for which it’s famous, when health-
       from the Stohrer pastry shop.  a wide variety of items including
                           used bicycles, bric-à-brac and an   conscious Parisians turn up in droves
                           exotic spices stand.  for the organically grown produce.
       Rue Mouffetard                          Marché Raspail is not a cheap
                                               market, but it is very good.
       (See p168.)         Marché aux Puces de
       Rue Mouffetard is one of the oldest   St-Ouen  Rue de Seine and
       market streets in Paris. Although it    Rue de Buci
       has become touristy and somewhat   (See pp248–9.)
       overpriced, it’s still a charming   This is the best known, the most   75006. Map 12 E4. q Odéon.
       winding street full of quality food   crowded and the most expensive of   Open 8am–1pm & 4–7pm Tue–Sat,
       products and street musicians. There   all the flea markets, situated on the   9am–1pm Sun.
       is also a lively African market down   northern outskirts of the city. Here,   The stalls here are expensive and
       the nearby side street of Rue   you’ll find a range of markets, locals   crowded but sell quality fruit and
       Daubenton, and a number of fashion   dealing from their car boots and a   vegetables. There are also a large
       boutiques and bars in the area.  number of extremely large buildings   florist’s and two excellent pâtisseries.
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