Page 343 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Paris

ENTER T AINMENT IN P ARIS  341

Rock, Jazz and World Music

Music lovers will find every imaginable form of music in crossover, are on offer. Clubs
Paris and its environs, from international pop stars in major range from quasi-concert halls
venues to buskers of varying degrees of talent on the streets to piano bars and pub-like
and in the Metro. There’s a huge variety of styles on offer, with venues. One of the most
popular places, though not the
reggae, hip-hop, world music, blues, folk, rock and jazz – Paris most comfortable, is the New
is said to be second only to New York in the number of jazz Morning. It’s hot and the table
clubs and jazz recordings made here, and there is always an service can be a little erratic, but
excellent selection of bands and solo performers. all the great jazz musicians
On the summer solstice (21 June) each year, the Fête de la continue to perform here, as
they have in the past. Arrive
Musique takes place. The whole city parties all night, with early to ensure a good seat.
everything from huge outdoor stages and top bands to Le Duc des Lombards is a lively
lone buskers or accordionists playing traditional French songs jazz club in Les Halles, which
invading Paris’s streets, squares and cafés. also features salsa.
For complete listings of what’s happening, buy Pariscope Many jazz clubs are also cafés,
(published every Wednesday) at any kiosk. For jazz fans bars or restaurants. The latter
includes the intimate Autour de
there’s the monthly Jazz magazine for schedules and in- Midi... et Minuit in Montmartre,
depth reviews. with its vaulted “cave”. Dining
might not be a requirement, but
it’s always wise to check first.
Major Venues songwriter and musician Other hotspots are Le
The top international acts are Bertrand Burgalat, led to a Petit Journal Montparnasse
often at the enormous arenas: growth in confidence in the for modern jazz, Le Petit
AccorHotels Arena at Bercy, local music scene. The phrase Journal St-Michel for Dixieland.
Stade de France at St-Denis or “French Touch” often describes A trendy crowd is drawn to
the Zénith. Other venues,such hip producers, writers or La Bellevilloise’s Sunday jazz
as the legendary chanson centre singers, now in demand all over brunches in Ménilmontant.
of the univ erse, the Olympia, or the world. Banlieue- (suburb-) Caveau de la Huchette looks
the Grand Rex (also a cinema), based rap, rai and reggae no like the archetypal jazz joint, but
offer a more traditional concert- longer sound like French today, it favours swing and big-
hall atmosphere. They host versions of imported forms, band music, and is popular with
everyone from bewigged and instead they now have their students. The Caveau des
cosmetically enhanced iconic own identity. Oubliettes has a growing
first ladies of country to acid jazz There is no shortage of gigs. reputation for cutting-edge jazz.
stars. (See Directories p342 The latest bands usually play at For a change, try the local
and p351). Divan du Monde, Nouveau talent at small, friendly bars
Casino and La Cigale and its such as the less expensive
sister club, La Boule Noire. The Bistrot d’Eustache and super-
Rock and Pop Rex Club is the best place for cool La Flêche d’Or, set in an
Until recently, Paris’s indigenous R&B. Many other nightclubs old railway station. The Jazz
rock groups (Les Négresses also double up as live music Club Etoile in the Méridien
Vertes, the hit fusion band of venues (see pp343–5). The hotel is a well-respected venue
the nineties and noughties, are Olympia is the city’s most which features Sunday jazz
probably the best-known) drew famous rock venue, attracting brunch. On the other side of
foreign attention precisely top acts. The Bataclan, scene of town, the Le Trabendo has an
because they were French. tragedy in November 2015, intriguing mix of up-and-
For too long, Paris pop meant made a defiant reopening just comers and down-and-outers.
Johnny Hallyday and insipid a year later with a string of dates Although the Sunset-Sunside is
covers of US and UK hits, or that upheld its tradition of primarily known for jazz, it
Serge Gainsbourg and his hosting rock’s edgiest names. also includes blues nights on
distinctive, decadent style. its programme.
Paris rock traditionally Jazz Paris has two international
(and deservedly) attracted jazz festivals in summer: Paris
either patronizing praise or Paris is still jazz-crazy. Many Jazz Festival (see p65) and Jazz
outright mockery. American musicians have à la Villette in July. The former is
That is no longer the case. made the French capital their the mainstay of the summer
The international success of home because of its receptive calendar, and Jazz à la Villette in
the groups Daft Punk and Air, atmosphere. All styles, from the Parc de la Villette (see pp238–
and the contribution to the free-form to Dixieland and 9) offers films on jazz, debates
music scene of producer, swing, and even hip-hop-jazz and boeufs (jam sessions).

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