Page 138 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Hungary

136  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION AROUND BUD APEST  137

fire) has ensured that this is one Opposite the mansion, on the and 1764. The façade – with two
of the best-preserved Roman- other side of the railway tracks, Corinthian half­columns guarding
esque churches in the country. is what is left of old Gödöllő, the entrance – is adorned with
Many of the houses that mainly the cluster of buildings an intricate wrought­iron balcony.
surround the church date from around Szabadság tér. At No. 5 Next door is the Sisters of Charity
the 18th century, and all are is the oldest building in the town, Chapel and Hospital, built in the
protected buildings. One contains dating from 1661. Once the 17th century and still a function­
a small ethnographic museum, home of local landowner Ferenc ing hospital to this day (a more
with collections of folk costumes, Hamvay, it is today the excellent modern section was recently
tools and dolls. The house also Gödöllő Town Museum (Gödöllő incorporated into the back of
serves as the visitors’ centre for Városi Múzeum). Besides displays the hospital building, cleverly
the Ócsa Nature Reserve telling the story of the town kept out of view from the square).
(Ócsai Tájvédelmi Körzet), one and of its greatest patron, Antal Rock garden at the National The pink Neo­Renaissance
of the most accessible nature Grassalkovich, there is a colourful Botanical Garden, Vácrátót building opposite the hospital
reserves in Hungary. The reserve exhibition focusing on the works was for a short time the Bishop’s
surrounds the village, and apart of the Gödöllő Artists’ Colony. This O National Botanical Garden Palace, then the Vác residence
from one small area visitors can group of artists, active between Alkotmány utca 2–4. Tel (28) 36 01 22. of Habs burg Empress Maria
freely explore it. Much of the 1901 and 1920, was inspired by Open Gardens: Apr–Oct: 8am–6pm Theresa, who adored the town.
reserve consists of reedy bog or William Morris and John Ruskin daily; Nov–Mar: 8am–4pm daily. Since 1802 the building has
marsh, known as turjános, which and pursued ideals of communal Greenhouses: Apr–Oct: 8am– 3:45pm been the home of Hungary’s
once covered a vast area here. rural living. Behind the museum Tue–Sun (to 1:15pm Fri). & 8 7 Deaf and Dumb Society.
The marshes are home to rare is the Calvinist Church, built here On the southern side of the
plant and animal species, in 1745 with money donated square stands the Domi nican
including tortoises, lizards and a by Grassalkovich, who had 5 Vác Church of Our Lady of Victory,
number of birds, such as harriers demol ished the town’s original 40 km (25 miles) north of Budapest. on which construction began in
and corncrakes. Guided tours Calvinist church to make way Road Map D3. * 33,000. £ from 1699. Due to the War of Indepen­
Magnificent frescoes in the Serbian Orthodox Church in Ráckeve depart from the visitors’ centre. for his palace. dence, however, work on the
Budapest. @ from Budapest.
1 Ráckeve greatest military strategists, O Ócsa Nature Reserve E Gödöllő Town Museum n Tourinform, Március 15 tér 17, interior decoration only began
in 1755. As a result the façade is
(27) 31 61 60. ( daily, behind
43 km (27 miles) southwest of Prince Eugene of Savoy. Credited Dr. Békési Panyik Andor utca 4–6. Szabadság tér 5. Tel (28) 42 20 03. Március 15 tér. ∑ www.visitvac.hu sober, while the interior is rich in
Buda pest. Road Map C4. * 8,500. with the expulsion of the Turks Tel (30) 494 33 68. Open Mar–Oct: Open 10am–4pm Wed–Sun. & Rococo artwork. The special cli­
£ from Budapest. @ from Buda pest. at the end of the 17th century, 9am–6pm Tue–Sun; Feb–Nov: 9am– Vác has stood on the eastern matic conditions of the crypt have
n Tourinform, Eötvös utca 1, (24) 42 Prince Eugene built himself a 4pm Tue–Fri, 10am–5pm Sat & Sun. bank of the Danube since the conserved naturally mummified
97 47. country mansion known as the & 8 4 Vácrátót year 1000. Destroyed by war in bodies, coffins, clothes and other
Savoyai Castle, on what is now 35 km (22 miles) from Budapest. the late 17th century, the town objects buried with the dead.
The small town of Ráckeve has Kossuth Lajos utca. The elegant, Road Map D3. * 1,700. £ from was rebuilt. Its centre, around These are on display at the
for centuries been considered very early Baroque façade of Budapest. @ from Budapest, Vác. Március 15 tér, dates from the exhibition inside the church.
the capital of Csepel Island, the mansion has been preserved. 18th century and was a thriving At the northernmost end of
which extends 54 km (34 miles) Although the castle is currently The National Botanical Garden marketplace until 1951. The the old town, on Köztársaság út,
south along the middle of the closed to the public, its formal (Nemzeti Botanikuskert) at market itself survives, though stands the only triumphal arch
Danube from Budapest. Ráckeve gardens can be admired from Vácrátót is among the oldest it is now hidden behind the in Hungary. This was built in
(Rác means “Serb” in Hungarian) the river. in Hungary, and at present the Dominican Church, a Baroque 1764, ostensibly to honour
was founded in the 15th century largest. Founded in 1870 by masterpiece built between 1734 Maria Theresa.
by Serbs from Keve, who fled 2 Ócsa Count Sándor Vigyázó, the gar­
Serbia after the Turkish invasion. dens have been open to the
The oldest building in the 30 km (19 miles) west of Buda pest. public since 1961. Among
town is the Serbian Ortho dox Road Map D3. * 8,500. £ from the 12,000 different kinds of
Church on Viola utca, built by Budapest. @ from Budapest. n plant covering over 2 sq km
some of the first Serbs to arrive Tourinform, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky utca 2, (0.8 sq miles) are more than
here. Dating back to 1487, this (29) 57 87 50. 1,000 species that are native to
is the oldest Ortho dox church Romanesque façade of the Calvinist Church Hungary, as well as plants of the
in Hungary. Its walls are covered The part-Romanesque, part- in Ócsa Russian steppes, Central Asia,
in well-preserved frescoes, Gothic Calvinist Church at the Rocky Moun tains in the US,
the first telling the story of the Ócsa was originally built in 3 Gödöllő and trees and shrubs from the
Nativity and the last depicting the 13th century by the Far East. Waterfalls, rock gardens,
the Resur rection. A vast, Premonstratensian Order, 35 km (22 miles) northeast of Budapest. lakes and many statues add to
colourful iconostasis separates about which there is a small Road Map D3. * 29,000. £ HÉV the enjoyment, while frogs are
the sanctuary from the nave. exhibition in one of the church’s from Budapest. n Tour in form, Királyi a frequent sight along the paths
Two side chapels with side rooms. Used as a mosque Kastély, (28) 41 54 02. and walk ways of the gardens.
Renaissance elements were during the Turkish invasion, Inside the greenhouses are a
added in the 16th century. it was converted back into a Gödöllő is most famous for its further 2,800 different types of
Ráckeve’s peaceful and church during the 18th century, restored Baroque palace, the plant and flower, as well as a
convenient situation made it the and thorough restoration in Antal Grassalkovich Mansion fascinating exhibition on the
country home of one of Europe’s 1920 (following damage by a (see pp138–9), built in 1741. flora of the tropics. The Dominican Church in Vác, with its simple exterior belying the riches within
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

136-137_EW_Hungary.indd 136 18/09/17 3:40 pm 136-137_EW_Hungary.indd 137 18/09/17 3:40 pm