Page 208 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Hungary
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206      HUNGAR Y  REGION  B Y  REGION                                                             SOUTHERN  TR ANSD ANUBIA      207


                                               site of an earlier church, which                                       from the same starting point.
                                               was consecrated in 1060 but                                            The Hungaricum Festival held in
                                               destroyed in 1702. Beneath                                             summer features a huge folk art
                                               lies King András I, laid to rest                                       fair, folk dancing, sports events
                                               here in 1055. Károly Lotz’s                                            and evening concerts.
                                               superb frescoes of Faith,
                                               Hope and Charity adorn                                                 h Herend
                                               the church’s ceiling.
                                                 The western half of Tihany                                           7 km (4 miles) northwest of Veszprém.
                                               is closed to motor traffic and                                         Road Map B4. * 3,400. @ from
                                               accessible only on foot, along                                         Veszprém. ∑ herend.com
                                               a number of well-marked trails,
                                               most of which begin just                                               The small village of Herend is
                                               outside Tihany village. The                                            famous mainly for its porcelain
                                               most intriguing route is                                               manufactory, which has been
                                               the Lajos Lóczy Nature Trail,                                          producing some of the finest
                                               which takes visitors past the   A café near Lake Balaton in the elegant resort of Balatonfüred  porcelain in the world since 1826.
                                               hermit caves overlooking                                               The structure itself is a master­
       Kinizsi Castle in Nagyvázsony, once a military fortress  Tihany village, and the   f Balatonfüred   g Balatonalmádi   piece, and a listed building. A late
       s Nagyvázsony       d Tihany Peninsula   peninsula’s two inland lakes:   23 km (14 miles) southeast of Vesz­  13 km (8 miles) south of Veszprém.   Classi cist edifice built in 1840, it
                                                                                                                      has an amazing entrance, topped
                                               Belső-tó (Inner Lake) and
                                                                              prém. Road Map B4. * 13,000.
                                                                                                  Road Map B4. * 8,000. £ from
       26 km (16 miles) southwest of   15 km (9 miles) south of Veszprém.   Külső-tó (Outer Lake). Belső-tó   £ from Budapest. @ from Buda pest.   Budapest. @ from Buda pest.    with an egg­shaped dome
       Veszprém. Road Map B4. * 1,750.   Road Map B4. £ to Balatonfüred.    is a volcanic crater and an angler’s   4 from Siófok. n Tourinform, Blaha   n Tourinform, Városház tér 4, (88)    guarded by two giant angels.
       @ from Balatonfüred.  @ from Balatonfüred to Tihany   dream, while Külső-tó is a bird   Lujza utca 5, (87) 58 04 80. _ Anna   59 40 80. _ Hungaricum Festival       Porcelanium, the visitor centre
                           village. 4 car ferry from Szántód.    sanctuary and nesting ground   Ball (last Sat in Jul).  (last week in Jul).  of the manufactory, is a museum
       Set in a valley between the Balaton   n Tourinform, Kossuth Lajos utca    for tens of thousands of birds.      of porcelain as well as a brand
       hills and Mount Kab, Nagyvázsony   20, Tihany, (87) 44 88 04.    Tihany has good grass   The site of the first medicinal   The second­largest resort on   shop. It  has displays of the
       boasts Kinizsi Castle, a well-          beaches, although the most     retreat on Lake Balaton,   Balaton’s northern shore,   decorative Herend china and
       preserved fortress. It was given to   Declared Hungary’s first   popular, on the promenade    Hungary’s first sailing club    Balatonalmádi has welcomed   porcelain, from dinner plates
       local warrior Pál Kinizsi in 1472    conservation area in 1952, the   at Tihany village, get very    and one of its oldest   bathers since the   to intricately painted figurines.
       by King Mátyás in recognition of   Tihany Peninsula is an outcrop   busy during high summer.    balls, Balatonfüred   1870s. It has a fine   There is also the opportunity
       his outstanding military service.   of volcanic rock extending    The passenger port, Tihany-rév   remains the grandest   sandy beach, and    to visit a workshop to watch the
       Families will enjoy the games and   for 5 km (3 miles) into Lake   at the peninsula’s southern tip,   resort on the lake.   is an excellent base    production process. Visitors can
       entertainments of the period   Balaton. The symbol of the   is the prettiest on the lake.    Though its streets   for exploring the   also try their hand at shaping and
       staged daily in July and August.  peninsula, and visible from afar,   Car ferries cross from here    have a faded air, the   Balaton hinterland   painting of porcelain objects.
         From the top of the 29-m-   is the Baroque Abbey Church,   to Szántód on Lake Balaton’s   villas, such as that    and hills on foot.   There are demon strations by
       (95-ft-) high keep a superb   built in the 18th century on the   southern shore.  of the romantic   From the railway   artists who meticulously hand­
       panorama of the surrounding                                            novelist Mór Jókai        station, a 6­km   paint every detail. A vast factory
       countryside unfolds. In the dun-                                       (1825–1904), still        (4­mile) path   shop sells some 12,000 porcelain
       geons is the Pál Kinizsi Castle                                        convey ele gance;         (marked with blue   items made here and painted in
       Museum (Kinizsi Pál Vármúzeum),                                        Jókai’s home is today   A sailing boat on    crosses) leads up    about 350 different patterns.
       with a small wax work display of                                       a museum dedi cated   Lake Balaton  to the Wesselényi
       medieval torture. Pál Kinizsi’s                                        to his works. Primarily   Viewing Tower at    E Porcelanium
       sarco phagus lies in the chapel.                                       a health spa, patients flock    the top of Öreg­hegy (132 m/   Kossuth Lajos utca 140. Tel (88) 52 31
         Opposite the castle stands                                           to the town’s hospital to drink   433 ft). A much tougher walk   97. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm daily;
       St István Church, built for Kinizsi                                    its mineral­laced water. The   leads to the top of Felső­hegy   Nov–Mar: 9:30am–5pm daily (Nov–
       in 1470 but rebuilt in Baroque                                         “miracle” water is available to    (321 m/1,053 ft)   Dec: Tues–Sat). & 8 7
       style in 1740. The Open-Air                                            all from the colonnaded
       Ethnography Museum                                                     drinking fountain in Gyógy tér.
       (Szabadtéri Néprajzi Múzeum)                                             Gyógy tér is also where
       with two cottages (a copper-                                           the grand annual Anna Ball
       smith’s and a weaver’s) remain                                         is held at the Árkád Hotel in
       as they were in the mid-1840s.                                         July. The first ball in 1825
                                                                              was a showcase event for
       E Pál Kinizsi Castle Museum                                            the grand daughter of a local
       Vár utca 9. Tel (88) 26 40 11. Open Mar,                               businessman. Traditionally,
       Apr & Oct: 10am–5pm; May, Sep: 9am–                                    the debutantes all wear
       6pm, Jun–Aug: 9am–7pm, Nov–Feb:                                        exactly the same gown, and
       10am–4pm. &                                                            the high point is the election
       E Open-Air Ethnography                                                 of the belle of the ball.
       Museum                                                                   Two great sandy beaches
       Bercsényi utca 21. Tel (88) 26 47 24.                                  flank Balaton füred’s landing
       Open May–Sep: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.                                        stage, from where the Lake
       & 7                 The High Altar in Tihany’s ornate Baroque Abbey Church  Balaton ferry departs.  The astonishing entrance of the Porcelanium
       For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


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