Page 207 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Hungary

SOUTHERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  205

stands on a small peninsula
that – as the castle’s name
suggests – was once an island.
The last waters receded about
the time the castle was
destroyed, in 1702, after an
explosion in the gunpowder
store. Some of the towers, part
of the living quarters and the
stables remain. The ruins are
a steep, 30-minute walk uphill
from the village, but the
picturesque thatched cottages
that line the route up and the
stunning views from the top
make the climb worthwhile.
The village itself is dominated
by Esterházy Mansion, a Neo- Badacsony Mountain, as seen from Szigliget Castle
Classical 19th-century building,
now a hotel for the exclusive Grey Friar wine (Szürkeberát) squares and colourful
use of the Hungarian Writers’ can be sampled. The second 19th-century houses. Many
Union. The hotel’s exten sive wine-press house on the trail have been converted into
gardens are open to the public. was once Kisfaludy’s home, bars and restaurants, with
Szigliget also has a pleasantly and today is also a wine cellar terraces overlooking the lake.
quiet grass beach and an offering tastings. There are An early 19th-century
attractive harbour, always great views from its terrace. watermill in the middle of
cheerful with its show of Passing Rose Rock, where the the mill pond is now the Hotel
colourful sailing boats. couple met, the trail continues Gabriella. What most visitors
to the top, from where longer, really come to Tapolca for,
p Badacsony more strenuous hikes depart how ever, is the Cave Lake
Mountain for two other hills, Gulács-hegy (Tavas-barlang), a short walk from
the town centre. The lake lies
and Szent György-hegy.
30 km (19 miles) east of Keszthely. 18 m (59 ft) below the surface.
Road Map B4. * 2,400. £ from It was dis covered by accident
Tapolca. @ from Tapolca. 4 from a Tapolca when a well was being sunk
Keszthely, Fonyód. n Tourinform, 26 km (16 miles) northeast of Kesz thely. in 1902, and is reached via
Park utca 14, Badacsony, (87) 43 10 46. Road Map B4. * 18,000. £ from a steep staircase. Part of the
Budapest, Keszthely. @ from Budapest. 300-m (328-yard) cave system
Beginning at the railway station n Tourinform, Fő tér 17, (87) 51 07 77. can be seen from dry land,
in lovely Badacsony village is though much more can be
a well-marked and fairly gentle Encircled by 14 cone-shaped explored in a rented boat.
trail, sign posted in yellow, hills of basalt rock, Tapolca has
which winds its way up to one of the most specta cular T Tapolca Cave Lake
the Kisfaludy Look out Tower settings of any town on Lake Kisfaludy utca 3. Tel (87) 41 25 79.
at the top of Badacsony Balaton. Equally pictur esque is Open Jul & Aug: 9am–8pm daily;
Moun tain (437 m/1,434 ft). the thermal pond in the centre Sep–Jun: 10am–4:30pm daily. &
An extinct volcano, this offers of the town, encircled by little ∑ tavasbarlang.hu
the best hiking in the Balaton
area, with spectacular views
from the top across the lake.
On the way up, almost
hidden among the vineyards
that cover the volcanic soil, are
two superb former wine-press
houses. The first, 3 km (2 miles)
from Badacsony, is the Róza
Szegedy House, named after
the wife of the 18th-century
poet Sándor Kisfaludy. The
couple met on the mountain
and the house contains a small
display dedi cated to Kisfaludy’s
poetry, as well as a wine cellar
where the locally produced Tapolca’s unique attraction, the mysterious Cave Lake

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