Page 206 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Hungary
P. 206

204      HUNGAR Y  REGION  B Y  REGION                                                             SOUTHERN  TR ANSD ANUBIA      205


                                                                              stands on a small peninsula
                                                                              that – as the castle’s name
                                                                              suggests – was once an island.
                                                                              The last waters receded about
                                                                              the time the castle was
                                                                              destroyed, in 1702, after an
                                                                              explosion in the gunpowder
                                                                              store. Some of the towers, part
                                                                              of the living quarters and the
                                                                              stables remain. The ruins are
                                                                              a steep, 30-minute walk uphill
                                                                              from the village, but the
                                                                              picturesque thatched cottages
       The Central Pavilion, dominating the relaxing warm waters of the thermal lake in Hévíz  that line the route up and the
       u Hévíz             i Balatonederics    és Állatkert). Founded in 1984    stunning views from the top
                                                                              make the climb worthwhile.
       6 km (4 miles) north of Keszthely.   14 km (9 miles) east of Keszthely.   by a Hungarian big-game     The village itself is dominated
       Road Map B4. * 5,000. @ from   Road Map B4. * 1,200. £ from   hunter, Dr Endre Nagy, the   by Esterházy Mansion, a Neo-  Badacsony Mountain, as seen from Szigliget Castle
       Keszthely. n Tourinform, Rákóczi   Tapolca, Keszthely. @ from Tapolca,   museum is home to Nagy’s   Classical 19th-century building,
       utca 2, (83) 54 01 31.  Keszthely.      hunting trophies and ethno-    now a hotel for the exclusive   Grey Friar wine (Szürkeberát)   squares and colourful
                                               graphical memo rabilia that    use of the Hungarian Writers’   can be sampled. The second   19th-century houses. Many
       With its vast Central Pavilion in   Balatonederics is one of the   he collected in Tanzania. In    Union. The hotel’s exten sive   wine-press house on the trail   have been converted into
       the middle of what is the   oldest settlements on Lake   the Safari Park, African animals   gardens are open to the public.   was once Kisfaludy’s home,    bars and restaurants, with
       world’s largest thermal water   Balaton, its name first   including buffalo, zebra and   Szigliget also has a pleasantly   and today is also a wine cellar   terraces overlooking the lake.
       lake, Hévíz is a spectacular   mentioned as long ago as   camels – which can be ridden –   quiet grass beach and an   offering tastings. There are     An early 19th-century
       sight. Covered with Indian   1262. The Roman Catholic   roam freely, next to original   attractive harbour, always   great views from its terrace.   watermill in the middle of
       water lilies, which flower   church that stands in the   Masai huts.   cheerful with its show of   Passing Rose Rock, where the   the mill pond is now the Hotel
       in early September, Lake   village centre was built about              colourful sailing boats.  couple met, the trail continues   Gabriella. What most visitors
       Hévíz has been used for   the same time, originally as    O Africa Museum and Safari Park  to the top, from where longer,   really come to Tapolca for,
       bathing and treatments   a Roman esque structure.    Kültelek 11. Tel (87) 46 61 05.    p Badacsony   more strenuous hikes depart   how ever, is the Cave Lake
       since 1795. Up to        It received its present   Open Apr–Oct: 9am–4pm daily             for two other hills, Gulács-hegy   (Tavas-barlang), a short walk from
       30 m (98 ft) deep,       Neo-Gothic look   (to 5:30pm Jun–Aug). & 8 7   Mountain           and Szent György-hegy.  the town centre. The lake lies
       the lake has a surface    during renovation   ∑ afrikamuzeum.hu        30 km (19 miles) east of Keszthely.     18 m (59 ft) below the surface.
       area of 47,500 sq m        work in 1870–71.                            Road Map B4. * 2,400. £ from            It was dis covered by accident
       (56,800 sq yards)           The Holy Trinity                           Tapolca. @ from Tapolca. 4 from   a Tapolca   when a well was being sunk
       and a temperature           monument in   o Szigliget                  Keszthely, Fonyód. n Tourinform,   26 km (16 miles) northeast of Kesz thely.   in 1902, and is reached via
       of 36º C (96.8° F)          front of the church   20 km (12 miles) east of Keszthely.   Park utca 14, Badacsony, (87) 43 10 46.  Road Map B4. * 18,000. £ from   a steep staircase. Part of the
       in summer. It is   Fountain in front of the entrance   dates from 1871.  Road Map B4. * 1,000. £ from   Budapest, Keszthely. @ from Budapest.   300-m (328-yard) cave system
       replenished by    to Hévíz thermal baths   An exclusive resort   Keszthely. @ from Keszthely.    Beginning at the railway station   n Tourinform, Fő tér 17, (87) 51 07 77.  can be seen from dry land,
       a spring that               without hotels,   4 from Keszthely.        in lovely Badacsony village is          though much more can be
       produces 420 litres (92 gallons)   Balaton ederics nevertheless        a well-marked and fairly gentle   Encircled by 14 cone-shaped   explored in a rented boat.
       of water per second. Even in   welcomes hundreds of   Underneath the ruins of the   trail, sign posted in yellow,    hills of basalt rock, Tapolca has
       winter the water temperature   thousands of day trippers a year,   13th-century Szigliget Castle   which winds its way up to    one of the most specta cular   T Tapolca Cave Lake
       never drops below 28º C    all visiting its Africa Museum   (often referred to as Óvár, Old   the Kisfaludy Look out Tower    settings of any town on Lake   Kisfaludy utca 3. Tel (87) 41 25 79.
       (82.4° F). The water is slightly   and Safari Park (Afrika Múzeum   Castle), the village of Szigliget   at the top of Badacsony    Balaton. Equally pictur esque is   Open Jul & Aug: 9am–8pm daily;
       radioactive and recomm-                                                Moun tain (437 m/1,434 ft).    the thermal pond in the centre   Sep–Jun: 10am–4:30pm daily. &
       ended for the treatment of                                             An extinct volcano, this offers   of the town, encircled by little   ∑ tavasbarlang.hu
       rheumatism and arthritis. It                                           the best hiking in the Balaton
       also tastes surprisingly good,                                         area, with spectacular views
       and is used to treat stomach                                           from the top across the lake.
       disorders. The radioactive                                               On the way up, almost
       mud from the lake floor is                                             hidden among the vineyards
       also therapeutic.                                                      that cover the volcanic soil, are
         Although most patrons prefer                                         two superb former wine-press
       to bathe outside, even in winter,                                      houses. The first, 3 km (2 miles)
       there is a small indoor pool.                                          from Badacsony, is the Róza
       Hévíz also has the best range                                          Szegedy House, named after
       of hotels in the area.                                                 the wife of the 18th-century
                                                                              poet Sándor Kisfaludy. The
        Lake Hévíz                                                           couple met on the mountain
       Dr Schulhof Vilmos sétány 1. Tel (83)                                  and the house contains a small
       50 17 00. Open May–Oct: 8am–7pm                                        display dedi cated to Kisfaludy’s
       daily; Nov–Apr: 9am–6pm daily.                                         poetry, as well as a wine cellar
       & 7 ∑ spaheviz.hu   A camel at the Africa Museum and Safari Park in Balatonederics  where the locally produced   Tapolca’s unique attraction, the mysterious Cave Lake
       For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


   204-205_EW_Hungary.indd   204                             18/09/17   3:40 pm  204-205_EW_Hungary.indd   205                      18/09/17   3:40 pm
   201   202   203   204   205   206   207   208   209   210   211