Page 230 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Hungary
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228      HUNGAR Y  REGION  B Y  REGION                                                            THE  NOR THERN  HIGHLANDS      229


                                               0 Aggteleki                                                            centuries. It was the Rákóczis
                                               National Park                                                          who built Szerencs Castle at
                                                                                                                      the beginning of the 16th
                                               Aggteleki Nemzeti Park                                                 century, today the most­visited
                                               Tengerszem oldal 1, Jósvafő.                                           attraction in the town.
                                               Road Map E2. Tel (48) 50 60 00.                                          Converted to domestic use
                                               £ from Miskolc. @ from Budapest.                                       after defeat against the Turks,
                                               n Baradla oldal 1, Aggtelek (048)                                      the castle houses the Zempléni
                                               50 30 00. ∑ anp.hu                                                     Museum, which tells the story
                                                                                                                      of Rákóczi Zsigmond and the
                                               First established in 1985, the                                         castle’s military history, as well
                                               Aggteleki National Park is one of                                      as boasting the largest postcard
                                               Hungary’s World Heritage Sites.                                        collection in the world (over
                                               It straddles the Slovak border,   The Cave Baths in Miskolctapolca, unique in Europe  900,000). Exhibits also include
                                               and officially also includes a vast                                    period furniture, arms and the
                                               area of the Slovak Karst National   early humans thousands of years   over centuries, the caves   artistic works of goldsmiths.
                                               Park. Large parts of the park are   ago, all knowl edge of it was lost,   contain water that is high in     Szerencs’s main source of
       The Fátyol Step-Waterfall in Szilvásvárad  covered with deciduous forest,   and its entrance was rediscovered  calcium and magnesium, and    wealth and employment was,
                                               with clearings scattered liberally   only in 1569. The cave was fully   is particularly suited for treating   until its closure some years
       9 Szilvásvárad      is known to have provided   throughout the area. These   mapped in 1839, and has been   joint and back problems. The   ago,  a huge sugar factory –
                           shelter for prehistoric people    rocky outcrops provide a   open to the public ever since.   water is a warm 30° C (86° F)    the third largest in Europe.
       30 km (19 miles) north of Eger. Road
       Map E2. * 1,700. £ from Eger. @   as early as 7,000 years ago.  perfect habitat for rare plants   There are entrances in both   all year round. The cave baths   In the town’s Sugar Museum
       from Budapest, Eger. _ Bükk Carriage    and insects, including giant   Aggtelek and Jósvafő. Many   are surrounded by a large park   one can see fascinating
       Driving Trophy (last weekend in Jul).  G Szilvásvárad Stud Farm  swallow tail butterflies, as well    caverns have been spectacularly  with a rowing lake, and there    details about the history
                           Egri út 16. Tel (36) 56 44 00.    as 220 species of birds. Imperial   lit. Parts of the cave are open    is also a cave chapel nearby.   and technology of sugar beet
       Szilvásvárad is a leading centre    Open 8am–7pm daily. & 7  eagles and woodpeckers are a   to all­comers, but the best way    While the 150­m­ (492­ft­) long   cultivation and sugar produc­
       of Hungarian equestri an ism, and       common sight. There are        to view it is on a tour. There    cave baths are the primary   tion, and displays some 800
       white Lipizzaner horses – the   E Lipizzaner Horse-Breeding   marked nature trails, includ ing    are several to choose from,    attraction, the resort also offers   sugar packages from around
                           Exhibition
       same breed as those used at    Park utca 8. Tel (36) 56 44 00.    a 7-km (4-mile) trail from   all beginning at the Aggtelek   all the attractions of a conven­  the world.
       the famous Spanish Riding School   Open May–Oct: 9am–noon, 1–5pm   Aggtelek to Jósvafő.  entrance; one tour of 7 hours   tional thermal bath com plex,     The Gothic Reformed church
       in Vienna – are bred at the   Tue–Sun; Nov–Apr: 9am–noon &     The park also has some    takes in a part of the cave   complete with sauna, massage   on Kossuth tér dates from 1480,
       Szilvásvárad Stud Farm (Állami   1–5pm Sat & Sun, or by appointment.   200 caves to explore, of which   known as Domica under   and other treatments, near­  and hosted the Hun gar ian
       Ménesgazdaság Szilvásvárad).   & 7      the longest system – both      Slovakian terri tory. Occasionally   freezing­cold plunge pools and,   parlia ment in 1605. Three
       The farm is open for visitors, who      in the park and in Hungary –    the cave, which boasts splendid   on the recreational side, water   generations of the Rákóczi
       can also book riding and even   E Open-Air Forestry Museum  is the Baradla Cave (Baradla    acoustics, hosts classical and   slides and children’s pools.  family are buried in the crypt.
       carriage-driving courses here.    Szalajka-völgy. Tel (36) 35 55 05.    Bar lang). At 25 km (16 miles),    other music concerts.  Szerencs also has an elaborate
       In July an international carriage-  Open Apr–Oct: 9am–4pm daily    it extends into Slovakia.                   though badly weathered
       driving race takes place here.  (Oct: to 3pm); Nov–Mar: 9am–2pm   While archaeol ogi cal evidence   T Baradla Cave  e Szerencs   Baroque Greek Orthodox
         The village itself has more   daily. 7  suggests the cave was used by   Baradla oldal 1, Aggtelek. Tel (48) 50   32 km (20 miles) east of Miskolc. Road   church, built in 1799, on Ondi
       information on the famous horses                                       30 00. Open (guided tours only) Apr–  Map F2. * 11,000. £ from Miskolc,   utca in the north of the town.
       in its fascinating Lipizzaner                                          Sep: 8am–5pm daily; Oct–Mar: 8am–   Budapest. @ from Budapest.
       Horse-Breeding Exhibition                                              3pm daily; Oct: 8am–5pm Sat. &          E Zempléni Museum
       (Lipicai Lóte nyésztés Történeti                                                           The little town of Szerencs is   Rákóczi­vár. Tel (47) 77 77 70.
       Kiállítás). Also on display here                                       q Miskolc           dominated by its historical links   Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. 8 7
       are a number of coaches and a                                                              with the Rákóczi family, who   E Sugar Museum
       complete working smithy.                                               See pp230–31.       owned the town and much    Gyár út 1. Tel (47)  77 77 72.
         But there is more to Szilvás várad                                                       of the surrounding area for   Open 8am–4pm daily.
       than horses – it is also the gateway                                   w Miskolctapolca
       to the beautiful Szalajka Valley.
       A narrow-gauge steam railway                                           Pazár sétány, Miskolctapolca.
       runs the 5 km (3 miles) from the                                       Road Map E2. Tel (46) 56 00 30. @
       village to Szalajka-Fátyol-vizesés,                                    from Búza tér, Miskolc. Open May–
       site of the gentle but wide Fátyol                                     Aug: 9am–7pm daily; Sep–Dec, Feb–
       Step-Waterfall, as well as the                                         Apr: 9am–6pm daily. & 7 0 -
       Open-Air Forestry Museum                                               = ∑ barlangfurdo.hu
       (Szabadtéri Erdészeti Múzeum).
       The exhibits of early people’s tiny                                    The cave baths of Miskolctapolca,
       huts, furnaces and ele mentary                                         set amid the back drop of the
       hunting tools are fascinating.                                         Bükk Hills, are the most spec­
       At the head of the valley is the                                       tacular in Hungary. A vast resort
       Istállóskő Cave, which burrows                                         has grown around the caves,
       under Mount Istállóskő – at 959 m                                      which, discovered in the 16th
       (3,146 ft) the highest peak in the                                     century, have been attracting
       Bükk Mountain Range. The cave   Spectacular rock formations in the Baradla Cave in Aggteleki National Park  bathers ever since. Carved out   Szerencs Castle, housing the Zempléni Museum
       For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


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