Page 241 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Hungary
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THE  GREA T  PLAIN      239


       manuscripts, codices and books,   way into the park is via
       the earliest dating from 1040.  Nagybugac. This village is a
         At the House of Folk Arts   worthy attraction in itself,
       (Népművészeti Tájház), the local   with its fascinating horse­riding
       craft society displays and sells    displays. The Bugac Stud Farm
       its colourful wares in a   (Bugaci Ménes) just outside
       traditional Puszta cottage.  the village puts on daily shows.
                           These may, however, be
       E Paprika Museum    cancelled if there are too few
       Szent István király út 6. Tel (78) 46 18   spectators; it is best to book
       60. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm Tue–  an organized tour (www.
       Sun. & 8 Hun garian only. 7  bugacpuszta.hu). Not to be
       E House of Folk Arts  missed are the per formances
       Tompa Mihály utca 5–7. Tel (78) 46    of the legendary Puszta Fiver,
       15 60. Open mid­Apr–mid­Oct:   where one man – usually with    One of many birdwatching towers
       10am–5pm Tue–Sun. &    a moustache as long as his whip   in Kiskunság National Park
       8 Hungarian only. 7  – rides five horses simultaneously
                           (see box below). Visitors can ride   great bustards, herons and
                           one of the many thoroughbreds   spoonbills can be seen. The
                           at the stables themselves, and   unparalleled flora and fauna in
                           join a day­long horseback­tour   the reeds and marshes around
                           of the surrounding area.  the lake include rare species of
                             Nagybugac’s tiny Herds men’s   orchid, as well as otters, weasels,
                           Museum (Bugaci Pásztor­  water snakes, turtles and lizards.
                           múzeum) exhibits a small     The Fülöp háza with its
                           collection of folk art, costumes   shifting sand dunes is a unique
                           and tools but most visitors to   environment in the park and
                           Nagybugac are merely passing   is the habitat of hoopoes,
                           through on their way to the   golden orioles and bee­eaters.
                           park. The village is the gateway   Trails around the dunes begin at
                           to the largest area of the park,   the village of Fülöp háza, 30 km
                           the Bugac – a vast 100­sq­km   (19 miles) west of Kecskemét.
       Early machinery at the Paprika Museum    (39­sq­mile) expanse of grass­
       in Kalocsa          land, marshes, freshwater lakes   G Bugac Stud Farm
                           and reeds. A number of well­  Nagybugac Ménes. Tel (76) 57 50 28.
                           marked nature trails start at    Open daily. & 7 for horse shows, it
       4 Kiskunság         the park entrance.  is advisable to book in advance with
       National Park         Birdwatchers should head    Herdsmen’s Museum.
       Kiskunsági Nemzeti Park  for Lake Kolon, northwest of    E Herdsmen’s Museum
                           the Bugac and accessible    Nagybugac, Tel (76) 57 51 12.
       25 km (16 miles) west of Kecskemét.   via the village of Izsák, where   Open May–Oct: 10am–6pm daily. &
       Road Map D4. National Park Head­
       quarters, House of Nature, Liszt Ferenc
       utca 19, Kecskemét, (76) 48 226 11.   Csikós Horse Shows
       Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sat. £ from
       Kiskunfélegyháza to Bugac­felső; from   The equine skill of the Hungarian cowboys (or csikósok; also csikós
       Kecskemét to Izsák for Lake Kolon.    meaning “wrangler”), goes back as far as the first Magyar migrations
       @ from Kis kunféle gyháza to Bugac   and was originally military in nature. The Hungarian mounted soldier
       park entrance; from Kecskemét to   typically carried light weapons and rode light horses without a saddle.
       Fülöpháza. n Tourin form Kecskemét,   Today’s csikós shows contain much
       Kossuth tér 1, Kecskemét, (76) 48 10 65.   pseudo­military posturing, usually
       & 7 0 - = ∑ knp.hu   beginning with a horse parade and
                            salute, followed by displays of eques­
                            trian skill, control and dressage. What
       Kiskunság is Hungary’s    is unusual is the way the csikósok
       second­largest national park   can make their horses walk at
       after Hortobágy (see 256). Spread   almost a crawl: a legacy of fighting
       over 759 sq km (293 sq miles),   battles in the open plains. The
       the park is divided into a   highlight of these horse shows is
       number of unique natural   the Puszta Fiver (pusztaötös): one
       habitats, which are not all   man riding five horses simultan­
       interlinked. A visit to the park’s   eously. The Fiver’s origins are
       adminis tration office, in the   unknown – perhaps the rider was
       Kecskemét (see pp240–43)   bringing back the horses of his   A horseman practising for the
       House of Nature enables visitors   dead comrades after a battle.  impressive Puszta Fiver
       to get their bearings. A popular




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