Page 344 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - South Africa
P. 344

342      GA UTENG ,  LIMPOPO  AND  MPUM ALANGA

       Exploring Southern Kruger

       Tourism in Kruger is focused on the park’s southern half, which
       offers superior game-viewing compared with the wilder, drier
       north, has better tourist amenities, and is more accessible.
       Southern Kruger is divided into two sectors by the Sabie River –
       the busier of these runs south to Crocodile River and supports
       a cover of dense acacia woodland. The second, a swathe of
       lightly-wooded savannah, runs to the Olifants River. With a
       good road network and well-equipped, affordable rest camps,
       both are ideal for a self-drive safari. Alternatively, privately-
       managed lodges offer a guided safari experience similar to    One of the many rest camps in
       the private reserves along the western border (see p345).   Southern Kruger
                                               Skukuza
                                               Overlooking the Sabie River
                                               13 km (8 miles) east of Paul
                                               Kruger Gate, Skukuza is the
                                               park’s second-oldest rest camp,
                                               and by far the largest,
                                               comprising 230 accom-
                                               modation units and 80 camp
                                               sites, with a total capacity of
                                               1,000-plus visitors. Originally
                                               known as Sabie Bridge (after a
                                               railway bridge still standing
                                               today), the camp was renamed
       Crocodiles basking in the sun on the banks of Crocodile River  in 1936 after the pioneering
                                               warden James Stevenson-
       Crocodile River     positioned for a first night in the   Hamilton, whose Tsonga
       Flowing eastward along the park   bush after travelling from   nickname Skukuza means “he
       border for 60 km (37 miles), the   Gauteng. The accommodation    who sweeps clean”. Skukuza
       Crocodile River forms a natural   is perhaps the most comfortable   today doubles as the park’s
       barrier between the untamed   of any public rest camp, and the   research and administrative
       wilderness of Kruger and the   hilly setting, overlooking a tree-  headquarters, and its excellent
       lush farmland to its south. It is   lined dam, is lovely. One night   range of facilities include an
       overlooked by Crocodile Bridge,   here is sufficient before   airport, car-hire service,
       the park’s most easterly rest   pushing on deeper into   bank, ATM, petrol station,
       camp –situated 115 km (71   the park.        post office, museum,
       miles) from the provincial capital           restaurant and shop.
       Mbombela – and one of its   Pretoriuskop     Naysayers complain
       smallest, set in an area   Accessed via Numbi Gate –   Skukuza is too large
       renowned for its dense   which opened 8 km     and impersonal,
       population of white rhino.    (5 miles) to its west in   but these flaws
         On the Crocodile River, a short    1926, to be used by a   are more than
       drive east of camp, stands a   total of three cars during   compensated
       hippo pool and a fascinating   its first year of operation   by its strategic
       prehistoric rock painting site. Set   – Pretorius-kop, the park’s   location at the
       between Crocodile Bridge and   oldest rest camp, seems   junction of three
       the Lebombo Mountains on the   more attuned to the   superb game-
       Mozambique border, the 150-  sensibilities of     viewing roads:
       sq-km (58-sq-mile) Mpana-mana   local holiday-    the H3 to
       Concession, reserved exclusively   makers than to   Malalane,
       for the private Shishangani   international   The yellow billed hornbill can be   H4–1 to Lower
       Lodge and two satellite camps,   tourists. Game-   spotted in Kruger   Sabie and
       is good for spotting white rhino,   viewing in the   H1–2/3 to
       lion and elephant.   surrounding acacia woodland is   Satara. Also in Skukuza’s favour
                           erratic, but the Voortrekker Road   are the sprawling green
       Berg-en-Dal         (connecting it to Afsaal picnic   grounds teeming with birds
       Situated 13 km (8 miles) north-  site) is a good place to look for   and small mammals, and the
       west of Malalane Gate, this   the shy black rhino, stately eland   river below that attracts plenty
       modern rest camp is well-  and sable antelope.   of thirsty wildlife.
       For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp390–91 and pp410–11


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