Page 38 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Venice & The Veneto

36  INTRODUCING VENICE AND THE VENE T O

VENICE AND THE VENETO
THROUGH THE YEAR

Venice is a city that can be enjoyed at all of April. Autumn sees the beech, birch
times of the year. Even winter’s mists add and chestnut trees of the region turn
to the city’s romantic appeal, though clear every shade of red and gold. In summer
blue skies and balmy weather make spring the waters of Lake Garda, fed by melted
and autumn the best times to go. This is snow from the Alps, serve to moderate
especially true if you combine a visit to the heat. Winters are mild, allowing
Venice with a tour of the Veneto, where some of the crops typical of the
villa gardens and Alpine meadows put southern Mediterranean, like lemons
on a colourful display from the beginning and oranges, to grow.

festival of Carnival (see p34),
which means “farewell to
meat”, is celebrated through-
out the Veneto. First held in
Venice in the 11th century,
it consisted of two months
of revelry every year. Carnival
fell into decline during the
18th century, but was revived
in 1979 with such success
that the causeway has to be
closed at times to prevent
overcrowding in the city.
Today the 10-day festival
is mainly an excuse for
Winter in the delta of the River Po donning a mask and costume
and parading around the
the open-air procession called city. Various events are
Winter
Canto della Stella, literally organized for which the
Once a quiet time of year, “singing to the stars”. tourist offices will have
winter now brings an increasing details, but anyone can buy
number of visitors to the city of January a mask and participate while
Venice, especially over Epiphany (6 Jan). Children of watching the gorgeous
Christmas, New Year and the Veneto get another stocking costumes on show in the
Carnival. Many a day that begins full of presents at Epiphany, Piazza San Marco (see pp78–9).
wet and overcast ends in a blaze supposedly brought by the old Bacanal del Gnoco (last Fri
of colour – the kind of sunset witch Befania (also known as of Carnival). Traditional
reflected off rain-washed Befana, Refana or Berolon). masked procession in Verona,
buildings that Canaletto liked to She forgot about Christmas, with groups from foreign
paint. In the resorts of the according to the story, because countries and allegorical
Venetian Dolomites, popular for she was too busy cleaning floats from the Verona area.
winter sports, the conditions are her house. Good children Masked balls are held in the
perfect for skiing from early traditionally get sweets, but town’s squares.
December throughout the naughty children get cinders
winter months. from her hearth. Images of
the witch appear in cake-
December shop windows, along
Nativity. Churches all over with evil-looking
Venice and the Veneto mount biscuits made to
elaborate Nativity scenes in the resemble charcoal.
days leading up to Christmas.
Attending Mass is a moving February
experience at this time, even for Carnival
non-Christians. (10 days leading
Canto della Stella. In up to Shrove
Desenzano, on Lake Garda (see Tuesday).
p210), Christmas is marked by The pre-Lent Masked revellers at the Carnival

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