Page 113 - Delicious - UK (February 2020)
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MASTERCLASS: THE KNOWLEDGE











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                                                                                                                          TREND TO TRY:
                                                                                                                           ORANGE WINE

                                                                                             OUR
                                                                                         WINNER:                        WHAT IS IT? A wine made
                                                                                         QUICK HOT-
                                                                                                                        from white grapes in which the
                                                                                             SOAK                       pressed grape juice is kept in
              THE SIDE-BY-SIDE TEST                                                                                     lengthy contact with the skins

                                                                                                                        during and after fermentation.
              SHOULD YOU SOAK DRIED BEANS?                                                                              The result is a wine with a

                                                                                                                        deep orange colour. Flavour-
             Some say soaking dried beans before cooking is unnecessary but we think                                    wise, it tends to have less
             the cooked texture is better as pre-soaking softens the skins and also speeds                              acidity than white, but with
             up cooking. Please note: dried kidney beans (and cannellini and broad beans)                               some of the tannin and bitter
             contain a toxin that needs to be neutralised by first boiling for 10 minutes, then                         edge of a red. It has been
             discarding the water before further cooking. We tried two soaking methods.                                 made for millennia – notably in
                                                                                                                        Georgia – but has recently had
             METHOD 1 OVERNIGHT SOAK                   METHOD 2 QUICK HOT-SOAK                                          a resurgence elsewhere in
             Put the beans in a bowl and cover         Put the beans in a pan, add cold water                           Europe, particularly among
             with cold water (about 500ml per          to cover, bring to the boil and boil for                         winemakers who make wines
             100g beans). Soak the beans for at        2 minutes. Remove from the heat,                                 using minimal intervention.
             least 8 hours or overnight. Adding        cover with the lid and leave to soak for                         DRINK IT WITH… Charcuterie,
             1 tsp bicarbonate of soda to the          an hour. Drain (discard the water),                              cheese and roast meat. Orange
             water shortens the cooking time a bit     then boil in fresh water until tender.                           wine is a good match for food
             and results in softer beans. Drain the    VERDICT This method requires a                                   from the Middle East, Balkans
             beans (discard the soaking water),        little more effort but is a good                                 and Caucasus, as well as spicy
             put them in a pan, then boil in fresh     solution when you’re short of time.                              Asian dishes.
             water until tender. Larger/older          It also results in beans that are                                …AND IN COOKING? Use to
             beans will take longer.                   smoother in texture and creamy, not                              make a fantastic coq au vin or
             VERDICT This method is simple and         mealy. Some claim this method makes                              a fruity lamb braise.
             doesn’t take much effort, but the         the beans less gaseous, though we’ll                             WHERE TO BUY IT From good
             beans are not cooked consistently,        leave that up to you to find out.                                online wine merchants such as
             with a marked contrast between the        We conducted our test using dried                                Les Caves de Pyrene (lescaves.
             firmness of the skins and the             cannellini beans. See our cassoulet                              co.uk), and from Marks &
             softness of the middles.                  recipe, made with dried beans, on p100                           Spencer and Asda.






                               THE FOOD HACK

                               Watch how to slice and fan an avocado


                               to serve with brunch egg dishes or

                               simply to jazz up your avocado on toast.                                               →



                               See the video now at deliciousmagazine.co.uk/skills


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