Page 108 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide 2016 - Austria

106  VIENNA AREA B Y AREA

many such villages in the area
around Vienna, but undoubtedly
the most famous of all is Grinzing.
Although it may have lost some
of its original charm, this is still a
nice place to spend an evening.
On the way to Grinzing, it is
worth taking the time to visit
the Heiligenstädter Testament-
Haus at No. 6 in the narrow
Probusgasse, Ludwig van
Beethoven’s most famous home
in Vienna. It was here that the
great composer tried to find a
cure for his worsening deafness;
when he failed, he wrote a
Cobenzlgasse, one of the charming streets in Grinzing dramatic letter to his brothers,
known as The Testament.
1 Kahlenberg 2 Grinzing
@ 38A. v 38. @ 38A.
3 Karl-Marx-Hof
North of the city, on the edge The quiet villages scattered Heiligenstädterstrasse 82–92.
of the Vienna Woods, rise two among the vineyards on the % Heiligenstadt. v D. @ 5A, 10A,
almost identical peaks. The slopes of the Vienna Woods 11A, 38A, 39A.
lower of the two, with ruins usually come to life during the
visible on top, is Leopoldsberg, wine-making season, when In the 1920s, Vienna was
the former seat of Margrave large groups of tourists descend governed by a social-democratic
Leopold who ruled Austria in on them to sample the new- town council, elected mainly
the 12th century. The second, vintage Heuriger. Originally, the thanks to the votes of first-time
with a television mast and the vintners were licensed to sell women voters, a period known
outline of a white church at their own wine, while as Red Vienna. The council
the top, is Kahlenberg, the snacks were offered for formed the ambitious
highest peak in Vienna. free. This tradition plan to build houses
It was from here, on the developed into for its entire working
12 September 1683, that the today’s Heurigen – population. As a
Polish King Jan III Sobieski new-vintage wine result, between
led his troops to relieve the taverns, typical 1923 and 1933
besieged city. Pope Innocent III’s of Vienna. more than 60,000
papal legate celebrated a Today, of course, new apartments,
thanksgiving mass in the ruins such hospitality is no well-appointed for
of the church that had been longer offered for free. the time, were built.
destroyed by the Turks. At Heurigen inns, wine The programme was
The restored St Josefkirche on and other drinks are A plaque on No. 31 financed by a luxury
Kahlenberg is now maintained served at the table Himmelstrasse in Grinzing tax imposed on
by Polish monks. Two tablets and food is available wealthy citizens.
beside the church door from self-service buffets. Guests Its execution was so strict that
commemorate the battle and sit on benches around wide the municipal finance director,
the visit by Pope John Paul II, wooden tables, where they can Hugo Breitner, earned himself
in 1983. Inside the church is a drink and enjoy themselves the nickname the “financial
chapel with frescoes by the until the early hours. There are vampire”. Karl-Marx-Hof is an
Polish artist, Jen Henryk de
Rosen, and a display of the
coats of arms of families whose
members took part in the battle.
A short distance behind
the church is an observation
terrace and a restaurant. The
views over the vineyards below
and the city beyond are fabulous,
with the Danube bridges to the
left and the Vienna Woods to
the right. No wonder then
that Kahlenberg is a popular
weekend destination. The peach- and salmon-coloured façade of the Karl-Marx-Hof
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p294 and pp314–16

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