Page 142 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

140 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

and the earliest known example of
Welsh script. Head west on the A40
turning off left to Llangathen and
Aberglasney Gardens (open daily;
www.aberglasney.org), a rare restored
cloister garden dating back to the
15th century. It is a planter’s paradise,
with vast swathes of delphiniums
and a yew tunnel. The mansion house
has a splendid early Victorian Ionic
Above Aberglasney House set in the famous portico, a shop and a café. Enjoy the
gardens, near Llandeilo 1 Llandovery colourful profusion of butterflies
Carmarthenshire; SA20 0AP attracted by the flowers in summer.
VISITING LLANDOVERY This is a Welsh market town with neat ª From Llandeilo take A483 south to
cottages and Georgian buildings. The Ffairfach, take a left at roundabout,
Parking
Cheap parking by the castle and TIC. ruined Norman castle by the river was right after a railway bridge, following
built in 1110 and sacked by the Welsh signs to Trapp, then castle and car park.
Tourist Information
Kings Road, SA20 0AW; 01550 720 693; ruler Owain Glyndŵr in 1403. Drive
open Apr–Oct south on Bridge Street out of town 3 Carreg Cennen Castle
over the river and then fork right to the Carmarthenshire; SA19 6UA
WHERE TO STAY village of Myddfai. A family of doctors, Just east of Trapp, on the western
the “Physicians of Myddfai”, lived here edge of the Brecon Beacons National
LLANDOVERY from the 12th to the 18th centuries, Park, Carreg Cennen Castle (open
Kings Head Inn moderate and were renowned for their herbal daily) is a dramatic ruined fortification,
Lashings of history are on offer at this
16th-century inn with nine rooms. remedies. Walkers can use Llandovery set high on a stunning 99-m (325-ft)
There’s a cosy bar and restaurant with as a base for hikes around the northern limestone bluff. There is evidence of
traditional home-cooked Welsh food. edge of the Brecon Beacons National prehistoric and Roman activity, but it
1 Market Square, SA20 0AB; 01550 720 park (www.breconbeacons.org). Or was the 11th-century Welsh princes
393; www.kingsheadllandovery.co.uk hire mountain bikes from Goshawk who first built on the site. Today’s
LLANDEILO (01550 720 233) by the day or half day. remains are those of the magnificent
The Cawdor moderate Maps and leaflets are available at the 13th-century Norman edifice. Walk up
This relaxed boutique hotel mixes the tourist information centre (TIC). the hill to the castle from the car park.
contemporary with the antique and ª From Llandovery re-cross the bridge ª Go back to Ffairfach and straight
serves good food. and take the A40 west to Llandeilo. on to A476. Turn right on A48, then
Rhosmaen Street, SA19 6EN; 01558
823 500; www.thecawdor.com turn right on B4310 to the Botanic
2 Llandeilo Garden (signed).
LAUGHARNE Carmarthenshire; SA19 6BH
The Boat House B&B moderate This elegant town is perched on a 4 National Botanic Garden
This B&B has four airy, contemporary bluff overlooking the Tywi, the longest of Wales
rooms. It’s just a short walk from here
to Dylan Thomas’s famous Boathouse. river to flow entirely within Wales. At Carmarthenshire; SA32 8HG
1 Gosport Street, SA33 4SY; 01994 427 its centre is 13th-century St Teilo’s Occupying the site of a Regency
263; www.theboathouselaugharne.co.uk Church, rebuilt in the 19th century by country estate that was once owned
renowned Victorian revivalist architect by Sir William Paxton, Master of the
Below left Ruins of the Norman castle in George Gilbert Scott. The church has Calcutta Mint, the National Botanic
Llandovery Below right Yellow daisy-like an exhibition on the St Teilo Gospels, Garden of Wales (open daily; www.
flowers at Aberglasney Gardens a local 8th-century illuminated book, botanicgarden.wales) is the largest

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