Page 143 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

DRIVE 13: Wonders of West Wales 141

EAT AND DRINK
garden in Wales. Its centrepiece is 6 Laugharne
the Great Glasshouse, designed by Carmarthenshire; SA33 4SD AROUND LLANDOVERY
Lord Norman Foster. It is the largest This is a very picturesque coastal The Neuadd Arms moderate
single-span glasshouse in the world town with lovely cottages and North of Llandovery, this pub makes
and houses a number of rare and Georgian houses set on the expansive full use of local produce. Try Welsh cawl
endangered plants. The garden has an Taf Estuary. The town and coastline is (lamb and leek soup) or the Welsh black
beef and a traditional Sunday roast.
unrivalled collection of Mediterranean dominated by the ruins of Laugharne Cilycwm, SA20 0ST; 01550 721 644;
flora, as well as a unique double- Castle. It was built by the Norman www.neuaddarms.com
walled garden, an award-winning de Brian family in the 13th and 14th LLANDEILO
Japanese garden and a bee garden. centuries and was later turned into The Angel Hotel moderate
There are also woodland and lakeside a grand Tudor Mansion in the 16th This established inn has a relaxed bar
walks. The garden is wheelchair- century by Sir John Perrot. During – choose from the blackboard menu, or
friendly, and mobility aids are available the Elizabethan period, the town was dine in the more formal bistro. There’s
(pre-booking advised; 01558 667 149). bigger than Cardiff and remained an always a vegetarian choice available.
There are also two cafés, a restaurant, English-speaking village within Wales. 60 Rhosmaen, SA19 6EN; 01558 822
765; www.angelbistro.co.uk
a shop and a plant sales area. The narrow fishing lane behind the
ª Head back to the A48 west towards castle leads up to Dylan Thomas’s AROUND THE NATIONAL
Carmarthen and take the A484 south to home, the Boathouse (open daily; 01994 BOTANIC GARDEN OF WALES
Kidwelly (Cydweli). Follow signs to castle. 427 420; www.dylanthomasboathouse. Y Polyn expensive
com), with his modest writing study in On the B4310 south of the A40, Y Polyn
5 Kidwelly Castle the garage. There is a nice café here, offers excellent Welsh produce, such
as organic beef, in traditional dishes
Carmarthenshire; SA17 5BQ so enjoy a cup of tea while gazing out with a modern twist. Everything is
An imposing fortification, built during over pretty Carmarthen Bay. The poet homemade – even the bread.
the 13th–15th centuries on a bluff is buried in a simple grave in the Capel Dewi, Nantgaredig, SA32 7LH;
01267 290 000; www.ypolynrestaurant.
over the River Gwendraeth, Kidwelly churchyard in the north of the town. co.uk
Castle (open daily) was part of the There are several interesting shops
Norman strategy to secure south behind the clocktower, and a jeweller, Below The imposing Carreg Cennen, in a
Wales by controlling the river passes Quicksilver, where you can have a gem- superb setting Bottom left The Great
here and at Laugharne, Llansteffan stone set in a silver ring within an hour. Greenhouse, National Botanic Garden of Wales
and Loughor. The earliest parts of the ª From Laugharne continue on the Bottom right Kidwelly Castle, one of a series
castle consist of the square inner ward A4066 to Pendine. of 13th-century Norman fortifications
with the four round corner towers
and portcullis gates to the north and
south. Further concentric defences
were added in the mid-13th century
by its new owners, the de Chaworth
family. The gatehouse is extremely
well fortified and was designed so
that it could be held independently
if the rest of the castle was captured.
The castle also contains two bake-
houses and the remains of a chapel.
ª Return to Carmarthen, head west
on the A40 and turn left onto the
A4066 south to Laugharne.
Dylan Thomas
Dylan Thomas was one of the
world’s great 20th-century English-
language poets. Born in Swansea, he
wrote over half of his poems there,
including “And Death Shall Have No
Dominion”. He moved west to New
Quay and Laugharne to write his
masterpiece “Under Milk Wood”, a
play about a night and a day in the
imaginary Welsh fishing village of
Llareggub (which means something
entirely different read backwards).
He was a big success in America
but died in New York aged only 39.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

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