Page 166 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

164 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

6 Llangollen
Denbighshire; LL20 8AW
British Prime Minister and Welshman
David Lloyd George (1863–1945)
described the area around Llangollen
as “a little bit of heaven on earth”.
Llangollen itself is best known for the
International Musical Eisteddfod. This
was set up in 1947 to encourage good
relations between all nations after
World War II. The town gets very busy
during the festival in July. Visit the black
and white, ornately half­timbered
Plas Newydd (open daily mid-Feb–Oct),
the former home of the “Ladies of
Llangollen”, Lady Eleanor Butler and
Miss Sarah Ponsonby, who ran away
from Ireland together to live here
between 1780 and1829. Famed in
Regency society, their visitors included
Above left Decorative topiary in the grounds the Duke of Wellington, Wordsworth,
of Chirk Castle Top right Pub sign, Llangollen 5 Chirk Castle Byron, Shelley and the Darwins. Above
Bottom right The ruins of Valle Crucis Abbey, Wrexham; LL14 5AF the town looms 213­m (700­ft) the
set in glorious countryside Built as a border fortress at the end of ruins of Castell Dinas Bran. Follow the
the 13th century by Roger Mortimer, a path marked from the Canal Wharf
warlord of Edward I, Chirk Castle (open bridge up to the top for superb views.
WHERE TO STAY daily Mar–Oct; grounds: open daily all The 74­km (46­mile) Llangollen Canal,
AROUND CHIRK CASTLE year) is full of beautiful furniture and
The West Arms Hotel moderate paintings. It was bought in the 16th Offa’s Dyke
The drive to this ancient inn set in the century by Sir Thomas Myddleton; his The Anglo­Saxon King Offa of
tranquil Ceiriog Valley is long – but a descendants hired Augustus Pugin Mercia (AD 757–96) is best known
real treat. The hotel is 18 km (11 miles) (1812–52), Gothic revivalist and archi­ for his dyke, a defensive earthwork,
west of Chirk on the B4500 with pretty tect of the Houses of Parliament, to running north to south, built to
en­suite rooms and lovely views. protect the border between Mercia
Llanarmon Dyffryn Ceiriog, LL20 7LD; carry out major alterations. There are and Wales. Built from AD 780–90, it
01691 600 665; www.thewestarms.co.uk also some wonderful Neo­Classical was up to 27 m (88 ft) wide and 8 m
rooms by architect Joseph Turner. The (26 ft) high, with probably a wall
LLANGOLLEN library has many fine books, and the or palisade at the top. However, it
Gales of Llangollen moderate garden, with dramatic clipped yews, is was of limited success and was
This hotel has 15 en­suite rooms with soon overrun. Today, the 285­km
original features, plus antique and brass a highlight. There is also an impressive (177­mile) Offa’s Dyke Footpath
beds. Some rooms are over the wine bar, set of intricate iron­lacework gates. (www.nationaltrail.co.uk/offasdyke)
others in a timber­framed building. ª Take B5070 north to A5 and on to is a pretty national trail passing
18 Bridge Street, LL20 8PF; 01978 860 Llangollen for Chirk. Park in the centre, close to Montgomery, Powis Castle,
089; www.galesofllangollen.co.uk
or cross the bridge and turn right into Chirk Castle and Castell Dinas Bran.
RUTHIN Mill Street for the long-stay car park.
Firgrove Country House moderate
This charming Georgian house, just west
of Ruthin on the B5105, has extensive
gardens, two attractive B&B rooms plus a
self­catering suite. Can do evening meals.
Llanfwrog, LL15 2LL; 01824 702677;
www.firgrovecountryhouse.co.uk
Manorhaus moderate
This boutique hotel has eight modern,
stylish rooms. There are luxurious
touches like fine bedlinen, sleek
bathrooms, a sauna, and even a
private cinema for guests.
Well Street, LL15 1AH; 01824 704 830;
www.manorhaus.com
Right The colourful hills and valley of
Horseshoe Pass, near Llangollen
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150

162-167_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 164 20/07/18 8:17 PM