Page 167 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

DRIVE 15: Along Offa’s Dyke 165

over the Dee valley, is a beautiful spot
for a walk. It crosses the stunning 38-m
(125-ft) high Pontcysyllte Aqueduct,
designed by Thomas Telford and
William Jessop. Completed in 1805, it
is the longest and highest aqueduct
in the UK. For a better look, head 5 km
(3 miles) east on the A539. Here visitors
can hire a barge for the day to cruise
the canal from Anglo Welsh (Canal
Wharf, LL20 7TX; 01978 821 749).
West of Llangollen, along the A542
(with car park), lies Valle Crucis Abbey,
a ruined Cistercian abbey dating from
1201. Walk further along the road to
Eliseg’s Pillar, set up in the 9th century
by the King of Powys in memory of his
great-grandfather. Driving further on,
the road rises up to Horseshoe Pass Above Plas-Newydd, the pretty home of the
(416 m/1,367 ft, often snowbound in 8 St Dyfnog’s Church “Ladies of Llangollen”
winter) and the Ponderosa Café – Denbighshire; LL16 4NN
worth a stop for the views, but beware In the tiny village of Llanrhaeadr,
of crisp-snatching mountain sheep. St Dyfnog’s Church holds one of the EAT AND DRINK
ª Take the A542, then A525 to Ruthin. most important Welsh ecclesiastical AROUND CHIRK CASTLE
Park in the centre off Station Road. treasures. It is the most complete The West Arms Hotel moderate
“Jesse Tree” window (showing Jesus’ Cosy fireplaces and low beams add
descent from Jesse, King David’s character to this historic inn, 18 km
father). The work dates from 1544 and (11 miles) west of Chirk on the B4500.
was paid for by pilgrims seeking the A restaurant and bar serves Welsh
lamb, local trout and vegetarian dishes.
healing powers of the holy well of Llanarmon Dyffryn Ceiriog, LL20 7LD;
St Dyfnog, visible in the woods behind 01691 600 665; www.thewestarms.co.uk
the church. It is regarded as the finest
pre-Reformation stained glass in LLANGOLLEN
Wales. Admire its powerful depth of The Corn Mill moderate
colour, revealed in 23 portraits from Gorgeous riverside setting at this
converted corn mill, now an award-
Jesse, reclining at the base, to other winning pub. Come for delicious beef
figures associated with Jesus’ lineage. sandwiches, ploughmans’ lunches,
Next door is the Anvil Pottery, in an burgers and sticky toffee pudding.
old smithy, where the two potters Dee Lane, LL20 8PN; 01978 869 555;
www.brunningandprice.co.uk
make beautiful but functional glazed
Above Barges cruising serenely along the stone and earthenware pots. AROUND LLANGOLLEN
Llangollen Canal ª Take the A525 north to Denbigh, Ponderosa Café inexpensive
then the A543 – car park is on the right. The splendid views are the selling
7 Ruthin point here, more than the food. It’s
cheap, cheerful and child-friendly.
Denbighshire; LL15 1YN Horseshoe Pass, LL20 8DR; 01978 790
This town’s historic centre is filled with 307; www.ponderosacafe.co.uk
timber-framed buildings. Nantclwyd y The Britannia Inn moderate
Dre (Jun–Aug: Sat–Wed; Apr, May & Sep: Located at the foot of the Horseshoe
Sat–Mon) is a c.1435 historic house in Pass, this inn is famed for the hearty
Castle Street displaying rooms from meals served in its beamed bar rooms.
seven periods from the 15th to the Good ales and wines, too.
20th century. The Ruthin Craft Centre Horseshoe Pass, LL20 8DW; 01978 860
144; www.britinn.com
(and TIP) shows crafts from across the
British Isles. The Pentonville-style RUTHIN
Ruthin Gaol (Apr–Sep: open Wed–Mon; On the Hill moderate
www.ruthingaol.co.uk), has been The husband-and-wife team here
restored as a prison museum. work with the best of local produce.
Try the slow-cooked pork belly, sticky
ª Leave on the A525 for Denbigh. carrot cake, and Shropshire blue cheese.
Look out for a sign to Llanrhaeadr on Above Half-timbered houses line the street in the 1 Upper Clwyd Street, LL15 1HY; 01824
left (easy to miss) and park by church. market town of Ruthin 707 736; www.onthehillrestaurant.co.uk
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

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