Page 169 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

DRIVE 15: Along Offa’s Dyke 167

Far left The bathing pool at St Winefride’s
Well, Holywell Left Stained-glass window,
from a chapel at St Winefride’s Well, Holywell

Morton Stanley and, as a journalist, ª Turn right out of castle, over the
found missing explorer Dr Livingstone. flyover, and onto A55 towards Chester.
ª Leave on B5381 towards Betws-yn- Turn off for A5026 on the left, turning
Rhos, over roundabout and sharp right. left at the sign for St Winefride’s Well.
Follow brown signs to castle.
w Holywell
q Bodelwyddan Castle Flintshire; CH8 7PN SHOPPING IN ST ASAPH
Denbighshire; LL18 5YA Close to the estuary of the River Dee,
A “fortified” house and museum set Holywell is a historic market town Wendy Gill at Earthworks Pottery
in expansive grounds, Bodelwyddan whose name derives from its main (Lower Street, LL17 0SG; 01745 583
Castle (open weekends; open weekdays, attraction, St Winefride’s Well (open 353; www.earthworks-pottery.co.uk)
summer and school holidays; 01745 584 daily). Legend has it that in AD 660, creates attractive handmade slipware
ceramics. Browse the individual jugs,
060; www.bodelwyddan-castle.co.uk) was the son of local chieftain, Caradoc, teapots, vases, jars and hand-decorated
named after Elwyddan, a 5th-century beheaded the young Winefride after pots with seasonal themes. There is
Romano-British chieftain. Although the she refused his advances. Water sprang parking nearby on Lower Street.
estate dates back to the 15th century, from the earth at the spot where her
most of what is visible today – the head fell, and she was restored to life EAT AND DRINK
limestone turrets and battlements – by her uncle, St Beuno. The spring DENBIGH
was created by John Hay Williams rises in the crypt of a 16th-century hall On the Hill moderate
between 1830 and 1852 with the and flows into a large bathing pool. A husband-and-wife team run this cosy,
architects Hansom and Welch. Look out for the sculpture of a pilgrim beamed bistro. Try their homemade
As an outpost of the National Portrait being carried to the well on a friend’s black pudding or slow-cooked Welsh
Gallery, it is a real trove of art treasures, back. The waters of the “Lourdes of pork with smoked cauliflower cheese.
1 Upper Clwd Street, LL15 1HY; 01824
and houses furniture from the V&A Wales” have been said to cause mirac- 707 736; www.onthehillrestaurant.co.uk
Museum and sculptures from the ulous cures since the 7th century and
Royal Academy of Arts. The interiors today, pilgrims travel from all over the AROUND HOLYWELL
are sumptuous and there are galleries world to worship at the shrine and Red Lion Inn inexpensive
on the upper floor. Outside, there are take the water. In the Middle Ages, the Take the A5026 northwest, then the
A5151, turning right for Llanasa to
formal gardens and parkland with Holywell to St David’s road linked find this cosy country pub. Enjoy a
woodlands walks and nature trails. the two most important Welsh shrines wide range of bar meals, including
The grounds also have trenches used and was known as “The Pilgrims Road” traditional fish and chips.
to train soldiers for World War I. right up to the 19th century. Llanasa, CH8 9NE; 01745 854 291
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Follow the drive route but return on the Cultural and Religious Treasures
Ludlow, Llangollen and Denbigh are A490, A489 and A49 for speed. Staying at Denbigh 9, see the castle
all excellent bases for exploring the Local Llangollen and churches before heading to
treasures of Wales. St Asaph 0 to see the William Morgan
Start at Llangollen 6 with a visit Bible; head on to Bodelwyddan Castle
One for the Kids to the society ladies’ house of Plas q, filled with fine treasures, and on
In Ludlow 1, see the castle and Newydd, then a climb up Dinas Bran to the pilgrimage site of Holywell w.
buy food for a picnic, then head to for some stunning views. After a visit Return towards Denbigh, going past it
Acton Scott Farm Museum 2 to see to the canal and aqueduct, have lunch and on to Llanrhaeadr and St Dyfnog’s
the animals and enjoy lunch in the at Horseshoe Pass, and see Valle Crucis Church 8 for the Jesse Tree window.
country. On to Welshpool 4, for a Abbey. Drive south to Chirk Castle 5
ride on the steam train and a visit to to admire its interiors and gardens. Follow the drive’s instructions all the
Powis Castle, if there’s time. Follow the drive’s instructions in reverse. way there and back.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

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