Page 219 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

DRIVE 21: History and Romance in the Borders 217

House 0 (open daily), a fine example
of an Edinburgh town house. Retrace
the route to Princes Street, turn left
back up to the station car park.
ª From station car park, turn left
onto New Street, left along Calton
Road to a T-junction, left on Leith
Street and then left onto A1. Beyond
the fringes of the city turn left onto
A198, taking coastal road to North
Berwick. Park on streets near harbour
and seabird centre.
2 North Berwick
The Harbour, North Berwick; EH39 4SS
With hi-tech cameras on its islands,
the Scottish Seabird Centre (open daily;
www.seabird.org) allows visitors to view
wildlife all year round. In summer, Above left The grand façade of Manderston
there are puffins and gannets rearing once lit by an oil lamp it’s now fully House, remodelled in 1871 Top right View
their young; in winter, grey seals and automated. Next to the visitor centre is south across the grass terrace at Manderston
their dark-eyed pups. Visitors control a little café (May–Aug: open daily). House Above right The Scottish Seabird
the cameras, and there are telescopes Continue into St Abbs to see the Centre, North Berwick
on the viewing deck. Seabird Seafaris charming harbour.
also runs trips around the islands in ª Leave on B6438, cross the A1 (right EAT AND DRINK
fast boats. Head to the town’s seafront then left), staying on B6438, and turn
for a game of crazy golf or just take it left on B6437. Then right on A6105 to EDINBURGH
easy on the sandy beach. the main gates, from where signs lead David Bann moderate
Delicious, imaginative vegetarian food
ª Continue on A198 to rejoin A1. After to the car park and entrance. such as roast aubergine chickpea cake or
Cockburnspath, turn left onto A1107 risotto with asparagus, fennel and peas.
and then left on B6438 to St Abb’s. The 4 Manderston House 56–8 Street Mary’s St, EH1 1SX; 0131
Reserve is to the left just before town. Duns, Berwickshire; TD11 3PP 556 5888; www.davidbann.com
A superb Edwardian country mansion, NORTH BERWICK
3 St Abb’s Head Manderston (May–Sep: open Thu & Sun The Grange moderate
Nr Eyemouth, Berwickshire; TD14 5QF pm; www.manderston.co.uk) was built by The seasonal menu at this popular
The St Abb’s Head National Nature Sir James Miller, a wealthy baronet, to restaurant might include steak from the
Reserve has an interactive exhibition impress society. Its most extravagant local butcher and garden herbs.
and visitor centre detailing various feature is the silver staircase. The house 35 High Street, EH39 4HH; 01620 893
344; www.grangenorthberwick.co.uk
coastal walks, which offer dramatic is now home to Lord and Lady Palmer,
clifftop views. The most interesting of Huntley and Palmers biscuits. Osteria No 1 moderate
walk goes to the remote lighthouse, ª Drive into Duns and take A6112 to Excellent Italian food at this acclaimed
restaurant, which serves a good value
built in 1862 by the Stevenson family Swinton, then take B6461 to Kelso. Park 3-course lunch. Mains might feature
(relatives of author R L Stevenson): in or around the main square. chicken breast stuffed with pancetta.
Try the creamy pannacotta for dessert.
Below View of the craggy coastline looking north from St Abb’s Head 7 High Street, EH39 4HG; 01620 890
589; www.osteria-no1.co.uk
AROUND NORTH BERWICK
Ducks at Aberlady expensive
This award-winning restaurant on the
A198 to Edinburgh has 23 rooms too.
Main Street, Aberlady, EH32 ORE;
01875 870 682; www.ducks.co.uk
ST ABBS
The Old Smiddy Cafe inexpensive
Pleasant little café in a former cottage
on the outskirts of St Abbs. Serves
soups, baguettes and cakes and has
seats outside for fine days.
By Nature Reserve Visitor Centre, TD14
5QF; 01890 71707; open daily May–
Aug; Mar & Apr weekends only
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

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