Page 105 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

Parque NacioNal chagres The Panama Canal and CenTral isThmus 103
Parque Nacional Chagres
North of Panama City, encompassing large tracts of Colón and Panama provinces,
the vast, sprawling rainforested wilderness of PARQUE NACIONAL CHAGRES stretches
from the northern rain-soaked mountains overlooking the Caribbean to the park’s
highest peak, Cerro Jefe, in the south. The tropical vegetation harbours large but
elusive populations of tapirs, endemic salamanders and an abundance of birdlife,
including harpy eagles and the rare Tacarcuna bush tanager, and is laced with
waterfalls and rivers rich in fish as well as otters, caimans and crocodiles. Hikers 2
are also drawn to the area, particularly by the prospect of following in the steps
of the conquistadors along the Camino Real, which slices across the western edge
of the reserve.
At the heart of the park, the powerful Río Chagres and its tributaries – home to
several Emberá and Wounaan villages that welcome visitors (see box, p.104) – carve
their way through rugged terrain. They spill into the elongated Lago Alajuela reservoir
at the park’s southwest corner, built to help regulate the water level in Lago Gatún
further downriver.
Supplying 45 percent of the water necessary for the Canal to function and providing
all the water for domestic and industrial consumption – as well as electricity through
hydroelectric power – in Panama City and Colón, the Río Chagres is of vital
importance to the country. In order to protect the river and its catchment area, the
national park was formed in 1985, its 1296 square kilometres making it one of the
country’s largest reserves.

Río Chagres and around
Most tourist activities rely on the area’s main artery, the Río Chagres, be it whitewater
rafting the cascading torrents of the upper river or more leisurely kayaking along the
slower, lower stretches, both of which are generally organized as day-trips from Panama
City (see p.76). One of the best ways to explore the park is by visiting one of the
numerous Emberá communities sprinkled along the banks of the Chagres and its
tributaries (see box, p.104). The Emberá, together with the closely related Wounaan,
have been relocating from the Darién since the late 1960s. Since their traditional
means of livelihood – seminomadic subsistence agriculture and hunting – are now
largely denied to them thanks to the restrictions of living within a national park, they
are being encouraged to make a living from tourism.
As with the neighbouring parks of Camino de Cruces and Soberanía, Parque
Nacional Chagres also includes important traces of the country’s colonial past,
containing a lengthy portion of the Camino Real, one of the conquistador mule routes
across the isthmus, which skirts the eastern shores of Lago Alajuela. There is currently
no clearly marked route but several tour companies offer day- or multiday guided hikes
along this historic trail (see p.76).

Cerro Azul
On the southern edge of Parque Nacional Chagres, 40km northeast of Panama City,
the area known as Cerro Azul is one of two entry points to the park – the other being
at Lago Alajuela (see p.105). It’s very popular with affluent Panamanians – and
increasingly with foreign retirees – attracted by the fresh mountain air and great
views (when the mists clear); many have second homes peppered along the fringes of
the park boundary. It’s not particularly wild, but its highest point, the antenna-covered
Cerro Jefe (1007m) has an impressive mirador and a couple of overgrown birdwatching
trails near the summit, which is a 4.5km hike from the park office – the warden can
give you directions.

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