Page 109 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)
P. 109
Colón The Panama Canal and CenTral isThmus 107
SAFETY IN COLÓN
Although sometimes exaggerated, Colón’s reputation throughout the rest of the country
for violent crime is not undeserved, and if you come here you should exercise extreme
caution – mugging, even on the main streets in broad daylight, does happen, with the
preferred method a knife discreetly pointed at some point of your anatomy until you hand
over the goods, which you should do without fuss. Don’t carry anything you can’t afford to
lose, try and stay in sight of the police on the main streets, and consider hiring a taxi driver
(your hotel will recommend one) to take you around, both as a guide and for protection. 2
The city centre
At the entrance to Colón, opposite the train station, is the rather dull Aspinwall
monument, honouring the American founders of the city and owners of the Panama
Railroad. A left turn takes you past the bus terminal, behind which lies the port enclave
of Cristóbal, then north up dilapidated Avenida del Frente until you reach the New
Washington Hotel (Wnewwashingtonhotel.com), which overlooks the Caribbean.
Initially constructed in wood around 1870 to house railway engineers, the current
concrete and cement-block edifice dates from 1913. It’s worth stopping to have a peek
at the entrance hall, with its chandeliers and ornate double marble staircase – poignant
reminders of Colón’s former splendour. To the right of the hotel as you face the sea is
the dark-stone Episcopalian Christ Church by the Sea, the first Protestant church in
Central America, built in the mid-1860s for the railroad workers; it has some delightful
stained-glass windows.
Four blocks east along the seafront, a statue of Christ the Redeemer, arms
outstretched, faces down Avenida Central, the city’s main street, which is lined with
monuments. The Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción de María, built between 1929
and 1934 with high, neo-Gothic arches and some attractive stained-glass windows, can
be found three blocks west of Avenida Central on Calle 5.
Along the waterfront of the Bahía de Manzanillo, on the eastern side of the city, Colón
2000, the cruise-ship terminal, holds a collection of shops and restaurants primarily
catering to cruise-ship passengers. The Super 99 has an inexpensive café and an ATM.
arriVal and inFOrmaTiOn COlÓn
By train The most comfortable way to reach Colón is on Frente and C 13) is fairly safe during the day, but avoid
the fabulous Panama Canal Railway train, which costs $25 arriving after dark.
one way (see p.96) to the Atlantic terminus, from where it’s Destinations Achiote (6.30am–7pm; every 45min;
a short taxi ride ($1–2) or 10min walk to the bus terminal. 45min–1hr); Escobal (6.30am & 8am, then every 40min
If you walk, keep to the left-hand side of the road, hugging until noon & hourly until 7pm; 45min–1hr); La Guaira, for
the fence, otherwise you are likely to get mugged. Isla Grande (9.30am–5.30pm; approx every 2hr; 1hr
By bus There are regular buses from Panama City (4am– 40min); Portobelo (Mon–Sat 6am–9pm, Sun
midnight; every 20min; 1hr 45min), though it’s worth 6am–6.30pm; every 30min–1hr; 1hr).
paying a little extra for the express coaches (every 30min; Tourist information The tourist office is on Paseo
1hr 15min). The bus terminal (on the corner of Av del Washington at Av Central (Mon–Fri 8am–4pm; T500 0877).
GeTTinG arOund
By taxi Though the city centre is compact, you are strongly (approximately $15–20) depend on where you go and the
advised not to wander around but to use licensed yellow number of passengers.
taxis or the fancier, pricier tourist taxis (white with a yellow By car Budget (T441 7161) and Hertz (T321 8312) have
band) wherever possible. Consult your hotel about hiring a car rental offices in Colón 2000; both are closed on Sun.
reliable driver to do your sightseeing; hourly rates
aCCOmmOdaTiOn
Colón’s budget options are in areas best avoided but there are sufficient business hotels, some of which are quite
affordable. It’s worth splashing out on a place that has armed security and a restaurant, so you won’t have to go out at night.
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