Page 121 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

Isla Grande The Panama Canal and CenTral isThmus 119
EXCURSIONS FROM ISLA GRANDE
a popular boat trip from Isla Grande leads you through a mangrove “tunnel of love” to the
best local white-sand beach and snorkelling destination, Isla Mamey. a half-day excursion
(about $60 for up to ten people) can be arranged through your hotel or directly with one of
the boatmen hanging out at the main jetty – note though, that it’s a shorter, cheaper boat ride
from Puerto lindo ($6). Surfers should head for Playa Grande ($60 for up to ten) on the
mainland, towards nombre de dios.
2
fancy the climb, hop in a water-taxi. The island’s highest point is crowned by the 85m
lighthouse built by the French in 1894; though in poor condition, it affords superb
panoramic views from the top.
arriVal and deParTure isla Grande
Access to the island is generally from the fishing village of La Guaira. Alternatively, boat transport from Puerto Lindo costs
$10–15 return.
TO LA GUAIRA more secure partially fenced area nearby ($5/day). Either
By bus A number of buses make the journey from way, don’t leave valuables in the vehicle.
Colón to La Guaira (9.30am–5.30pm; approximately
every 2hr; 1hr 40min) via Sabanitas and Portobelo. The FROM LA GUAIRA TO ISLA GRANDE
last bus back to Colón usually departs at 1pm (4pm By water-taxi At La Guaira a water-taxi ($3–5) takes you
on Sun), but check with the bus driver that these times 200m across the water to the main jetty by Cabañas Jackson,
still hold. which is the unofficial information point – for a little extra
By car Cars can be left by La Guaira dock for free, or in the you can be taken directly to lodgings further afield.
aCCOmmOdaTiOn
There’s a reasonable range of basic accommodation on the island, none of it particularly cheap, though midweek in low
season you can bargain for better rates.

★ Hotel Sister Moon Northeastern tip of the island peak reductions. Dorms $28, doubles $83
T6034 6187, Whotelsistermoon.com. Scattered over Macondo Hostel 50m from main jetty Wfacebook
the breezy hillside overlooking the island’s only surf .com/macondo-hostel-isla-grande. The gaudy artwork
break, these thatched cabins on stilts (with fans and makes this friendly new hostel unmissable. You’ve the
mosquito screens) offer the island’s nicest choice of a mixed dorm, a double room or a family room.
accommodation – make sure you get a full sea view. There’s plenty of chill-out space where you can play board
Next to the cosy bar-restaurant a small pool and sun games or pool, or simply mull over tour options. The
deck provide an excellent view of the waves. Rates communal, well-equipped kitchen is spotless. Breakfast
include a welcome cocktail and there are decent off- included. Dorms $15, doubles $35
eaTinG
The island’s restaurants predominantly serve fresh seafood almost straight from the boats, often accompanied by
coconut rice or plantain. The opening hours below are for the dry season; you’ll be lucky to get anyone to serve you a meal
midweek during the rainy season.
El Bucanero Close to La Punta. Relaxed beach bar- lilac flowers. The food – mainly seafood – lives up to the
restaurant, where you can sit with your toes in the sand at surroundings, being tasty and expensive (mains from
a couple of tables with umbrellas, or under a makeshift around $20). Daily 8am–8pm.
awning, or up at the bar. Fairly inexpensive seafood dishes Restaurante Villa Ensueño Villa Ensueno T448
(from $9) are served. Daily 11am–8/9pm. 2964. Built out over the water next to the island’s Cristo
El Nido del Postre Between the main jetty and La Negro – a large stone crucifix – this is one of the best
Punta T448 2061 or T6550 5587, Welnidodelpostre places to dine, offering inexpensive delights including
.net. The plushest place on the island, with tablecloths, fufú (fish soup in coconut milk; $8) and lobster. Daily
table decorations and a dining area bedecked in artificial 11am–9pm.

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