Page 119 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

Parque NacioNal de Portobelo The Panama Canal and CenTral isThmus 117
nets, and only a fan, you could be in for a hot, itchy night Wlamoradadelabrujaportobelo.com. Striking Congo-
when the wind drops, but the view from the deck, and the themed murals invite you to this welcoming spot, which
mellow vibe, make up for any discomfort. Breakfast runs art workshops and has kayaks for rent. They offer
included. Dorm $12, double $22 three artistically decorated flats (two for six people,
★ La Morada de la Bruja Portobelo Waterfront one for four), with a shared grassy lawn by the water’s
west of the Casa Real de la Aduana T6528 0679, edge. $200
eaTinG
Las Anclas Coco-Plum Eco-Lodge Resort, main road, along with an assortment of parilladas and Panamanian 2
2.6km west of town T448 2102. Don’t let the fun fishy favourites. Fri–Sun & public hols 9am–8.30pm.
decor distract you from the tasty squid, lobster, crab and El Palenque Casa Congo, waterfront, west of the Casa
the like – try the mixed seafood in coconut milk ($14), Real de la Aduana T202 0111. A cheerfully painted
washed down with coconut lemonade. Daily 8am–8pm. Congo-themed interior and an excellent terrace right by
El Castillo 2km west of Portobelo on the main road the water’s edge, offering a small but varied menu, from
T448 2244, Welcastillopanama.com. Get beyond the wraps to substantial seafood dishes (from $8). Part of the
kitsch pirate-themed exterior, and you’ve a mellow, rustic Fundación Bahía de Portobelo’s local development
over-the-water bar-restaurant, where you can gaze out programme (Wfundacionbp.org/es). Daily noon–8pm.
across the bay while lolling in a hammock and sipping a Panadería Nazareño On the main street T6957
cocktail. Food is tasty, and portions are generous, and 7088. This bargain bakery is open all day and sells juices for
there are some good-value daily specials ($8) among the $2, tasty sandwiches from $4, cheap pizzas and a delicious
more expensive dishes (mains from $12); try a Thai or variety of fresh bread. Tues–Sun 7am–9pm.
Vietnamese speciality. Mon–Thurs 8am–8pm, Fri & Sat Restaurante Arith Main road, south side of Plaza
8am–10pm. Central. Thatched and open-sided with wooden beams
Don Quijote Main road, 6km east of Portobelo at draped with fishing nets, this busy place serves breakfasts
Nuevo Tonosí T6697 9793. A large roadside restaurant and lunches of inexpensive staples, including fantastic
serving delicious, moderately priced French/Italian cuisine, patacones. Daily 8am–7pm.
including home-made pasta and tasty thin-crust pizzas

Parque Nacional de Portobelo

Bordering Parque Nacional Chagres, PARQUE NACIONAL DE PORTOBELO covers 360
square kilometres of varied landscape around Portobelo. From Cerro Bruja (979m), the
carpet of rainforest sweeps down to a 70km wriggle of coastline, taking in coral reefs,
mangroves – home to crab-eating raccoons – and golden beaches, where four species of
turtle come to lay their eggs. There are also significant populations of green iguana.
Deforestation was already a major concern before the area was declared a park in 1976,
but continued surreptitious tree-felling is putting even greater strain on the scarcely
protected and highly fragmented natural resources. As yet, no trails or accommodation
have been developed, though the lodgings in and around Portobelo and Puerto Lindo
usually offer guided walks of some description.

Puerto Lindo and around
PUERTO LINDO, a small fishing village en route to Isla Grande, consists of little more
than a clutch of simple dwellings strung out along a sheltered, palm-fringed bay, where
fishing vessels and yachts bob nonchalantly in the natural harbour. It’s become a popular
transit point for travellers heading to or from Colombia by sailboat (see box, p.25). The
consequent increase in backpacker traffic has meant that – as well as a shop selling basic
supplies and a reasonable restaurant and bar – there’s some inexpensive accommodation,
offering meals and tours, making Puerto Lindo a fine spot for relaxing. It’s also a short
hop to the popular island beach of Isla Mamey ($6 return by boat) and within easy reach
of Isla Grande ($10–15 return by boat).

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