Page 136 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

134 Central Panama El VallE
PLAYA SANTA CLARA FARÁLLON
Tortugas Beach Bar and Grill Playa Santa Clara La Fogata C Central Arriba T908 3975,
T6678 2066. Two-storey, open-sided, breezy bar- Wlafogatapanama.com. Cosy rancho in a garden setting,
restaurant at the back of the beach, with a small beer specializing in Caribbean-Panamanian cooking, with
garden in front, and sun loungers, ranchos and umbrellas plenty of coconut rice. Try the signature “Sexy lobster
for rent. They also rent SUP boards, and have showers. special”, a veritable seafood orgy of prawn cocktail, lobster,
Fresh, succulent seafood from $9. Daily 9am–6pm. jumbo shrimp, dessert and coffee for $40. Reservations
Xoko Interamericana, entrance to Santa Clara T908 essential at weekends. Daily noon–3pm & 6–10pm.
8090. It won’t win any architectural awards, and the ★ Pipa’s Beach Bar T6252 8430, Wpipasbeach.com.
highway location is hardly conducive to intimate dining, At the end of the sandy road, past the landmark Decameron
but the cuisine at this highly acclaimed Basque restaurant hotel, this informal bar-restaurant is smack on the sand.
more than compensates. Specializing in tapas, paella and The excellent lobster and trimmings will set you back a
other seafood dishes, they also do a fine portion of papas hefty $30, but you can tuck into other fresh seafood dishes
bravas. Don’t be in a hurry to be served, though. for just over $12. Also rents out ranchos ($30/day), sun
Mon–Thurs & Sun noon–9pm, Fri & Sat noon–10pm. loungers and umbrellas. Daily 9am–6pm.
3

El Valle
About 100km southwest of Panama City, just beyond San Carlos, a winding
road ascends 600m into the cordillera to EL VALLE, a small town of around seven
thousand inhabitants nestled in the crater of a now-extinct volcano. Undulating
hills rise to the south and west, ascending to more dramatic, forested peaks to the
north, often shrouded in mist. The picturesque location, cool climate and relative
proximity to the capital (90min by car) have made El Valle the holiday-home
location of choice for Panama City’s elite – a fact which becomes immediately
obvious after a quick peek at the immaculately kept gardens and luxury residences
down the aptly named Calle de los Millonarios (Millionaires’ Road). Quiet during
the week, the place comes alive at weekends and on public holidays as a stream of
4WDs arrives from the city and the otherwise still roads resound with the sound
of clopping hooves or revving quad bikes.
The huge explosion that blew the top off the volcano three million years ago left a
vast caldera that over time filled with rainwater. When the crater-lake drained, it left
behind a flat layer of rich volcanic soil. Perfect for agricultural production, the fertile
earth also nourishes the vast expanses of trimmed lawn, abundant fruit and flower-
laden trees, and attendant hummingbirds tucked away down El Valle’s side streets,
which are central to the place’s charm.
The surroundings are instantly impressive. Spectacular stream-filled cloud forests
envelop the elevated mountain reserve of Monumento Natural Cerro Gaital, which
provides first-rate birdwatching, and visitors can also explore the puzzling petroglyphs
of La Piedra Pintada and the spectacular falls of Chorro El Macho. If you enjoy fresh
mountain air, meanwhile, there are enough decent hiking, horseriding and cycling
opportunities to keep you in El Valle for several days.

The market
Av Central • Daily 7am–6pm
Town life revolves round the daily market, which draws the largest crowds at weekends,
especially on Sundays, when farmers and artisans pour in to sell fruit, vegetables,
flowers and handicrafts. Though small, it’s Panama’s best-known craft market outside
the capital; as well as straw hats you’ll find a decent range of ceramic figurines, painted
wooden trays (bateas) and soapstone carvings (mostly by Ngäbe or Buglé artists)
alongside Guna molas and Emberá or Wounaan basketry.

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