Page 142 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

140 Central Panama Penonomé and eastern CoClé
rooms with sizeable windows and cable TV. A great open- The old-fashioned decor may not be to everyone’s taste, but
sided hammock deck provides views across to the hills. the comforts (microwave, cable TV, coffee-maker, fridge) and
Other benefits include bike rental and use of communal fabulous tree-filled grounds together with friendly service
kitchen and laundry service. $55 make this a sound choice. Birding packages available. $99
Park Eden B&B C Espavé T983 6167, Wparkeden.com.
eatInG
There are a variety of places to eat in El Valle, mainly on the main road, but quality is uneven. At summer weekends, it pays to
eat early before the crowds gather and the kitchens struggle to cope with the influx of people and quality and service can suffer.

Bruschetta Anton Valley Hotel, west end of Av Central meantime they rent out floor space for visitors with their
T983 5118. The lively but cosy atmosphere here, together own sleeping bag ($8). Tues–Sun 8am–10pm.
with the moderate prices (salads $9–11; seafood dishes L’Italiano Av Central T6682 9398. Eat outside or step
from $13), makes this a popular place. The menu features inside and feel like you’re in an Italian home with all the
Panamanian dishes, some international favourites and photos, knick-knacks and checked tablecloths. The two
3 pseudo-Italian bruschettas. Since there’s only a sprinkling amiable Italian owners make their own pasta ($11–15)
of the sought-after patio tables, it’s worth booking ahead and buffalo mozzarella, and there’s a fine wine cellar, but
at weekends. Service can be slow. Daily 7–9.30am & prices are quite high. Try the pumpkin ravioli with pesto.
11.30am–10pm. Pizzas from around $10. Wed–Sun 11am–10pm.
La Casa de Lourdes C El Ciclo, tucked behind Hotel Los Panadería y Dulcería Cano Av Central T983 6420.
Mandarinos, 1km north of town T983 6450, Just the place to stock up on sticky buns, cakes and bread to
Wlacasadelourdes.info. Lovers of fine dining should keep you going on a hike. Daily 7.30am–8pm.
make the pilgrimage to the spectacular Tuscan-style villa- Restaurante Dos Hermanos Av Central T983 6201.
restaurant of celebrity chef Lourdes Fábrega de Ward, This great, cheerful café-restaurant is a favourite lunchtime
where inventive gourmet Panamanian cuisine (such as stop for Panamanian families. Tasty traditional mains
corvina in cashew fruit) is served on the elegant poolside ($7–13) include top-quality patacones with a few Peruvian
terrace. Leave room for an extravagant dessert. Mains from additions – try the fried ceviche – washed down with
around $26. Reservations a must at weekends. Mon–Sat delicious home-made juices and batidos. Daily 7am–10pm.
noon–3pm & 7–9.30pm, Sun noon–9pm. Restaurante Massiel Av Central, beyond the market
Don Quijote C El Hato 1 T983 6210, Wfacebook.com T6214 4480. Friendly, efficient place serving comida
/LosGabirros. No-frills Spanish home-cooking – paellas, típica and fast food – chicken with salad, rice and beans is
Spanish omelettes, stews, roasts and tapas – at affordable around $6 and hamburger combos go for much the same.
prices ($8–10). Inexpensive breakfasts too. They’re It’s also a good choice for a breakfast fry-up. Daily
planning to offer budget accommodation, but in the 7am–8pm.

Penonomé and eastern Coclé
The capital of the province of Coclé, PENONOMÉ was founded by Spanish colonizers in
1581 and briefly served as capital of the isthmus after the destruction of Panamá Viejo.
Standing at the geographical centre of Panama (a plaque marks the fact), this bustling
market town remains important both as a transit point and for the surrounding land,
which is used for fruit, vegetables, rice and maize as well as for pig, poultry and cattle
farming. The seventeen thousand inhabitants are predominantly mestizo, while some
have Arab and Chinese origins. Fittingly for a town that served as a reducción de Indios
– a place where conquered indigenous groups were forcibly resettled – Penonomé was
named after Nomé, a local chieftain cruelly betrayed and executed.
Though a provincial capital and major agricultural centre, Penonomé is surprisingly
small, with a very rural feel, with just a couple of modest sights and a pretty river
within walking distance. Its aquatic celebrations for Carnaval are a real crowd-puller
(see opposite), and it makes a decent base for visiting places of interest nearby. Chief
among them are the tranquil village of La Pintada, famed for its finely woven
sombreros, and the scenic mountains to the north, including Chiguirí Arriba, with its
hiking trails and spectacular views and the vibrant Cucuá community of San Miguel

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