Page 140 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

138 Central Panama El VallE
LA INDIA DORMIDA
The undulating hilltop at the western end of El Valle, known as La India Dormida, is believed
to be the slumbering silhouette of Flor del aire, beautiful daughter of Urracá, the indigenous
chief famed for his fierce resistance to Spanish colonization. The story goes that while battles
were raging, Flor fell in love with one of the conquistadors, unaware that she was admired by
Yaraví, the tribe’s most courageous warrior. Failing to get Flor’s attention, Yaraví took the drastic
measure of hurling himself off a mountain in front of the whole village. Understandably
distraught, Flor renounced her love for the Spaniard and wandered off into the forested hills,
where she eventually died of grief. Her body, it is said, is immortalized in the shape of a
mountain. With a great deal of imagination and a little prompting from a local resident, you
can usually make out her recumbent form, denuded of trees except for the distinct forested
section to the right-hand side, which more clearly resembles the tresses of her hair.

arrIVal anD GettInG arOUnD el Valle
3 By bus Buses pull in across from the market on Av Central By bike Though most places can be reached on foot,
(also known as Av or C Principal), which acts as the town’s cycling is convenient; bikes can be rented ($3/hr, $15/day)
unofficial bus terminal. Among them are regular services to at the central Hotel Don Pepe, by the market, or at several
and from Panama City (7.30am–7pm; every 20min; 2hr); other lodgings in the town.
the last return bus is 4pm. To travel west from El Valle, take By taxi Taxi rides should not cost more than a couple of
a San Carlos minibus (6.30am–6pm; every 30min; 20min) dollars to most places, though finding one available is
and get off at the “entrada” at Las Uvas, on the about as easy as locating one of El Valle’s fabled golden
Interamericana; here you have to flag down a westbound frogs.
bus coming from Panama City. The large ones to Santiago By local minibus During the day, occasional blue
or David are almost always full and rarely stop; your best minibuses circulate the town and will drop you off
bet is to get a smaller bus to Penonomé (see p.140) and wherever you want, while yellow school buses shuttle back
change, though on Fri afternoons or at the start of a public and forth from Capirita, at the eastern end of the town to La
holiday you could be in for a long wait for any bus to have Pintada to the west (every 30min). Minibuses also head
space. There are also infrequent buses (4–5/day) that go to from outside the market up the mountain to La Mesa
Penonomé via a back route; ask around at the market. (5am–7pm; hourly), the access point for Cerro Gaital.
InFOrmatIOn
Tourist information The small, helpful tourist kiosk Websites A couple of town websites are kept relatively up
(daily 8am–4pm; T983 6474) next to the market may to date: Wel-valle-panama.com and Wantonvalley.com.
have a map, although the owners of Artesanías Don Pepe MIA office Signposted to the left off Av Central on the way
(below Hotel Don Pepe on Av Central near the market), or into town from the Interamericana (Mon–Fri 8am–4pm;
the adjacent Davi’s Gift Shop, sell better area maps and are T983 6411).
excellent sources of local information.
aCtIVItIeS anD GUIDeS
ACTIVITIES GUIDES
Birdwatching Enthusiasts can join one of the tours offered Note that many of the hotels also have their own local
by the Canopy Lodge (see opposite) from $80/person. guides whom they regularly call on.
Horseriding The long-established stable at El Hato, south of Mario Bernal T231 3811 or T6693 8213, Emario
Hotel Campestre (T6646 5813), offers horseriding ($15/hr); bernal@gmail.com. An internationally renowned
it’s worth paying a few extra dollars for a guide (Spanish- naturalist from El Valle; he is in great demand, so often
speaking) to accompany you. A popular route, lasting around away on tour. English and Spanish spoken.
4hr, takes you round Cerro Gaital: $60–80/person (for one to Mario Urriola T6569 2676, Einfo@panamabirdguide
two people; cheaper rates for larger groups) including guide. .com. A professional biologist and enthusiastic ornithologist,
Panama Explorers Club Crater Valley Resort, C Ranita who also runs the serpentarium. English and Spanish spoken.
de Oro and C Caiprita, at the eastern end of town T983 Rodolfo Méndez T6607 5174, Whotelresidencialelvalle
6942, Wpexclub.com. Organizes a range of outdoor .com/tour. For Spanish-speakers seeking less specialized
activities in the area, including abseiling (rappelling), naturalist expertise, Rodolfo, better known as “El Chacal”, has a
kayaking, mountain biking and hiking. good general knowledge of the area, and charges modest rates.

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