Page 141 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

El VallE Central Panama 139
aCCOmmODatIOn
Most of El Valle’s accommodation can be found within walking distance of Av Central. Prices can be higher than elsewhere
in the interior and are often higher at weekends than during the week. Holiday weekends are busy, when a minimum two-
or three-night booking may be required.
APROVACA Signposted to the left on the way into town its Gamboa cousin (see p.100), this lodge overlooking the Río
from the Interamericana next to the MIA office T983 Guayabo is superbly situated in a private nature reserve. It’s
6472, Waprovaca.com. Small, quiet hostel attached to aimed at birders, but the fine surroundings, tasteful furnishings
the orchid nursery (entry included in the room rates). The and comfortable common areas make it a fine spot for anyone
comfortable en-suite dorm, which has a small kitchen, to unwind. Minimum two-night stay – three nights gets you a
patio area and laundry facilities, is good value; the spotless free birding tour. All meals included. $544
en-suite rooms less so. Dorm $13, doubles $54 Casa di Pietra 46 C Los Guayacanes T6675 6901
★ Bodhi Hostel Av Central, by Melo T908 7120, Wcasadipietra.net. Surrounded by greenery and birdlife,
Wbodhihostels.com. This friendly hostel makes the most of this large house boasts a pebbled exterior with more stones
its small space: plant-filled patio, with comfy chairs and than a cobbled street, and contains six suites, each with
hammocks; coffee bar; tidy kitchen; bikes for rent ($12/day); private balcony. A delightful place to unwind, offering 3
and an upstairs cine-lounge for a rainy afternoon. Sleep in a splendid breakfasts (included) and a restaurant supported
three-tiered bunk on a quality mattress – each with curtain, by an extensive wine cellar. $110
reading light, fan and charger – or in one of the small private ★ Golden Frog Inn (Villa Rana Dorada) C Las
rooms. Pancake breakfast included. Dorm $15, doubles $35 Veraneras T983 6117, Wgoldenfroginn.com. You get
Cabañas Potosí On the road to Chorro Las Mozas, 1km satisfying views across the crater valley floor from this
west of town centre T983 6181, Welvallepotosi.com. superior hillside inn, a 20min walk from the town centre. A
A welcoming place with four simple, clean concrete rooms handful of rooms and suites, some with private verandas
(with double and single bed – two with kitchen attached) and fully equipped kitchens, are set in a nicely landscaped
sharing a long patio facing La India Dormida. The cockerels garden with a decent-sized pool, shared kitchen and
in the flower-filled grounds should ensure an early start. hammock deck for enjoying the daily happy hour. Breakfast
Camping nearby. Camping per tent $10, camping per included. Doubles $110, suites $149
rented tent $20, doubles $59 Hotel Residencial El Valle Av Central, by the market
★ Canopy Lodge On the road to Chorro El Macho T264 T983 6536, Whotelresidencialelvalle.com. The
5720, Wcanopytower.com. Though not in the canopy, unlike unpromising motel-like exterior belies light, clean en-suite

HIKING AROUND EL VALLE
Though not as lofty as the peaks of Chiriquí, the mountains encircling El Valle still offer a
wealth of hiking opportunities. For most hikes you’ll need a guide, since trails are not well
marked and if the mist descends it’s easy to lose your way, though on a clear day you can
manage La India Dormida (see box opposite) without being accompanied. There are several
routes up the legendary hill, the most direct being to follow the path up past the Piedra
Pintada, hugging the stream until you reach the top. a better circular route heads out past
the baseball stadium, bearing left at the next fork. When the road ends, a path off to the right
brings you out on the lower part of what is presumed to be Flor’s body (see box opposite).
Walking north along the deforested ridge, you can enjoy the splendid views across the crater
before taking the path down from the “head” that eventually passes the refreshing waterfalls
and natural swimming pools near la Piedra Pintada, where you can cool off.
a more challenging hike scales the area’s highest peak, the forbidding forest-clad Cerro
Gaital (1185m), for which you’ll need a permit from Miambiente ($5) either from the office in
town (see opposite), or the one at the northern entrance to the Monumento Natural Cerro
Gaital reserve near la Mesa, which is often unstaffed. The most direct route involves a steep
climb from a path behind Hotel Los Mandarinos, for which you’d need a guide. alternatively,
you can labour 7–8km up the road to la Mesa (or take the bus), bearing right at the fork after
the village and arriving, a few hundred metres later, at the entrance to the reserve. The
orchid-rich area is a haven for birdwatchers as well as hikers, harbouring a rainbow of
hummingbirds, honeycreepers, toucanets, tanagers and trogons, as well as the elusive black
guan. a 2.5km loop trail, Sendero El Convento, winds through cloud forest, circling the summit,
with a turn-off to a mirador, which on a clear day affords stellar views down to the coast.

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