Page 173 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

The souThern coasT The Azuero PeninsulA 171
Playita del Faro
From Playa El Cirial, a 200m path across the island through iguana-favoured scrub
takes you to Playita del Faro. Strong offshore currents mean swimming and snorkelling
are sometimes prohibited here, but at low tide rock pools offer plenty to explore. The
basalt outcrop to the left as you reach the beach provides a vantage point for one of the
island’s main attractions: Panama’s largest colony of magnificent frigatebirds, estimated
to be around five thousand. January to April offers the best chance of seeing males
puffing out their extraordinary inflatable scarlet pouches, yet nesting goes on all year.
ArriVAl AnD inForMATion islA iGuAnA
Refuge entrance and fees Admission is $10, payable on to the island, 3km from Pedasí – and a taxi driver to get
the island; you will need to present your passport on arrival. there ($2.50 one way). There are no buses. Arrange a
On a tour Pedasí Sports Club and Pedasí Tours both pickup time with the taxi. An average price is $70 for a
arrange snorkelling and diving trips to the island, as do small boat for a half-day trip; the crossing can take upwards
some of the hotels and private guides (see p.169). of 40min depending on conditions.
By taxi and boat Most Pedasí lodgings, or the tourist MIA office The Pedasí MIA office (see p.169) can, in
office, should be able to give you contact details of a theory, provide information about the island, though this
fisherman with a boat at Playa Arenal – the nearest beach branch is often closed.
ACCoMMoDATion
Camping Rudimentary camping facilities – a latrine and a need to bring drinking water as well as food and a camping
rancho to pitch a tent under, no electricity, and collected stove. $10
rainwater providing the only water for showering. You’ll
4
Surfing beaches near Pedasí
The southeastern tip of the Azuero Peninsula offers desolate beauty: kilometres of
smooth dark sands punctuated by rocky outcrops and pounded by surf, with a few
(foreign-owned) intimate lodgings spaced along the coast, ranging from informal surf
camps to boutique hotels. Though the best surfing conditions are encountered between
March and November, the coastline is surfable all year round.
Playa El Toro and Playa La Garita are a walkable 3km or short taxi ride ($4–5) from
Pedasí; follow the road out of the main square until the fork, heading left to El Toro
and right to La Garita. Three kilometres south of Pedasí at the village of El Limón, a
road leads off 7km to the band of chocolate sand and rocks at Playa Los Destiladeros
(bear right at the fork), which offers point and beach breaks as well as fabulous views
across the ocean ($10 taxi ride).

Playa Venao and Islas Frailes
The imposing 3km swathe of charcoal-coloured sand that is Playa Venao (or
Venado), 30km southwest of Pedasí, is the region’s best-known surfing spot,
providing waves suitable for beginners and more experienced surfers alike – for
lessons, contact Surf Dojo (T838 3070, Wsurfdojo.com) at the west end of the
beach. A glorious arc, Playa Venao’s beauty has been somewhat diminished in recent
years by ill-considered hotel developments on the sand itself, though it still manages
to hold some appeal. A few kilometres out from the bay, the guano-flecked rocky
stacks of Islas Frailes are at times covered in thousands of nesting sooty terns and
other passing seabirds; you’ll need a good pair of binoculars to get a decent view
from the boat, since landing is impossible.
ArriVAl AnD DePArTure PlAYA VenAo AnD islAs FrAiles
By bus Buses from Las Tablas (see p.167) and Pedasí (see 7am for Las Tablas, and at 9am and 3pm for Pedasí. Note
p.169) bound for Cañas pass through Playa Venao (1hr). that these timetables are only loosely adhered to.
Return buses from Cañas, 15min from Playa Venao, leave at By taxi A taxi from Pedasí to Playa Venao costs around $30.

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