Page 190 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

188 Chiriquí and Veraguas The Chiriquí highlands
5 WHITEWATER RAFTING FROM BOQUETE
until the completion of a controversial dam a few years ago, the tumbling waters of the
128km-long Chiriquí Viejo, hugging the border of Costa rica, constituted one of the world’s
great whitewater rafting rivers. it’s still a top-class route to raft, providing an exhilarating
descent with mostly category iii rapids carving their way through stunning scenery. There are,
however, other equally picturesque and enjoyable rivers within closer striking distance of
Boquete, such as the Fonseca, Gariché and Majagua, with category ii and iii rapids. The
rafting season predictably dovetails with the rains (May to dec).
although the rafting outfits are located in Boquete, by the time all the passengers have been
picked up and you’ve crawled up the spectacularly sinuous road to the drop-off point, Chiriquí
Viejo is almost two hours’ drive away, whatever the operators may claim. if you are staying in
David, you can arrange a pickup there (which operators regularly do) or, if you’re in Volcán, a
rendezvous on the interamericana at the turn-off in Concepción. The descent ends at the
interamericana bridge near Paso Canoas.
The rafting companies in Boquete are professional outfits, but the sport is not without risk.
Bring sun block, trainers and a change of clothes (you will get wet and possibly thrown out of
the raft); don’t be afraid to ask for clarification on safety issues, and know your limits.
RAFTING AND KAYAKING OPERATORS
Boquete Outdoor Adventures Plaza Los Establos Boquete Safari Near Plaza Los Establos T6627
T720 2284, Wboqueteoutdooradventures.com. 8829. Whitewater rafting day-trips ($65) and a host
Known for rafting ($65), but also offers the usual hiking, of other tours, including on the ever-popular ATVs
birdwatching, coffee and adventure day-tours as well as ($65 and up) and a number of popular hikes –
multiday, multi-activity adventures (around $150 for including up Volcán Barú and along the Sendero de
two days) with optional accommodation add-ons. los Quetzales.

MOUNTAIN BIKING Wpanamarockclimbing.blogspot.com. Rock climbing
Mountain bike rental You can rent new bikes with and abseiling (rappelling) are relatively new to Panama –
helmets ($15/day) from a stall in the Boquete Artisans’ try this local outfit run by Panama’s first internationally
Village on Av Central. certified (bilingual) guide César Meléndez ($45/3hr). The
favoured destination is the Gunko de Boquete, a fascinating
ROCK CLIMBING lump of basalt that was spewed out of Volcán Barú when it
Panama Rock Climbing T6764 7918, last erupted, a 10min drive north of Boquete.
aCCOMMOdaTiOn
There’s a decent range of predominantly foreign-owned accommodation, all with hot water, in a burgeoning mid-range
market. Since most places only have a handful of rooms, everywhere fills up during holiday and festival periods – when
prices are hiked – so book ahead.
Finca Lérida Alto Quiel, 10km up the valley T720 Whostal-boquete.com. With a great central riverside
2285, Wfincalerida.com. This is less about ambience and location (noisy during the festival), these nine compact
all about location: plum in the middle of a historic coffee rooms (mainly doubles) have a shared balcony overlooking
estate, with cloud-forested slopes and birding trails above. the river at the back, and a communal deck. $40
The deluxe rooms have vast windows and private patios Hostal Gaia Av “B” Oeste T720 1952, Whostalgaia
affording stellar views down the valley on clear days. In the .com. Away from the party scene, this tidy, friendly, newly
evenings, snuggle up by the fire in the cosy common room. renovated hostel offers excellent value, hosting a mixed
Pricier rooms with old-world charm are available in the clientele of locals and travellers in its two small dorms
original family home. Breakfast included. $209 (each with its own bathroom) and three private doubles.
Hostal Beiro Av Porras T6478 4015. Friendly local There’s a clean kitchen, lounge area with TV and a nice
landlady offering four compact, clean en-suite rooms in an small outdoor terrace overlooking a garden with a stream
annexe; they share a small patio with a hammock and at the far end. Dorms $11, doubles $33
rocking chair. A solid budget choice if you want to avoid the Hostal Refugio del Río Garden Av “A” Este, at C 6 Sur
hostel scene. $30 T6878 6433, Wrefugiodelrio.com. Recently converted
Hostal Boquete Av “B” Este T720 2573, house with small dorms and private rooms (shared or

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