Page 191 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

The Chiriquí highlands Chiriquí and Veraguas 189
private bathroom) plus a lounge, well-equipped kitchen kitchenette, lounge, dining room and a terrace affording 5
and delightful garden, filled with fruit trees and hung with spectacular vistas across to Volcán Barú – this intimate B&B
hammocks. Dorms $12, doubles $36 enjoys an unparalleled reputation. Light suppers and
Hostel Mamallena Boquete South side of Parque gourmet candlelit dinners are on offer and a coffee tour is
Central T720 1260, Wmamallenaboquete.com. Set included. Rack rates (quoted here) are stratospheric; pay
right on the main square, in a lovely renovated wooden almost half the price by booking online. Reservations
property, this friendly, efficient place offers small four- essential. Two-night minimum stay. $410
bunk dorms and private rooms with shared or private ($5 Panamonte Inn & Spa Av 11 de Abril, off the top end of
more) bathrooms, plus use of a large kitchen, TV lounge Av Central T720 1324, Wpanamonte.com. This historic
and garden, and an abundance of hostel benefits, including 1914 hotel has hosted the likes of Roosevelt and Ingrid
free pancake breakfast and reductions on shuttle services Bergman, and offers refined elegance in flower-filled
(see p.186). Dorms $14, doubles $33 surroundings. When the chill nights close in, huddle next to the
Hotel Rebequet Corner of Av “A” Este and C 6 Sur cosy log fires while you sip your wine. Breakfast included. $275
T720 1365, Whotelerebequet.com. This long- Tinamou Cottage Finca Habbus de Kwie, Jaramillo de
established, good-value hotel has nine splendid rooms – Abajo T720 3852, Wcoffeeadventures.net. Three snug
spacious and generous with solid wooden furniture, self-catering cottages tucked away in a small Dutch-owned
including handsome beds, polished parquet floors and a hillside coffee estate a 10min drive from Boquete; a choice
fridge. Continental breakfast included. $73 retreat for birdwatchers who don’t want to have to stay in
★ La Montaña y el Valle Coffee Estate Jaramillo town. You’ll need 4WD access, or arrange to be picked up in
Arriba T720 221, Wcoffeeestateinn.com. A deluxe town. Meals can be ordered. Reduced rates for online
retreat in lush gardens – three bungalows, each with booking and stays of two nights or more. $153
eaTing
Antojitos Av Central T730 9332. Pleasant and cheerfully in Boquete, laid on by celebrity chef Charlie Collins. Inventive
decorated open-sided patio serving inexpensive (from $9) gourmet dishes, such as salmon smoked in cedar with
Tex-Mex favourites: enchiladas, quesadillas, chilli con carne parmesan ($23) can be savoured at candlelit damask-covered
and plenty of veggie options. Daily noon–8.30pm. tables in the formal dining room or more casually in the fireside
★ Art Café la Crêpe Av Central, at C 2 Norte T720 1821 lounge or on the terrace. Daily noon–2.30pm & 6–10pm.
or T6769 6090, Wfacebook.com/BoqueteArtCafe. Il Pianista Palo Alto road T720 2728. Intimate split-
More Paris than Panama, this cosy US-run French café is as level stone restaurant, a $3–4 taxi ride northeast of town
colourful as the art decorating the walls. Enjoy deliciously by a bubbling stream, illuminated at night. The Italian chef
light but filling sweet and savoury crêpes (from $8) or produces Boquete’s best pizzas – wood-fired – plus
French classics such as boeuf bourgignon ($20), and leave bruschetti, antipasti and excellent home-made pasta
room for the crème brûlée. Mon–Sat noon–8.30pm. (mains from $12). Tues–Sun noon–10pm.
Café Punto de Encuentro C 6 Sur off Av Central T720 Restaurante Colibrí Av “B” Oeste T6379 1300,
2123. This pleasant terrace overlooking a garden is the top Wrestaurantecolibri.com. Imaginative, healthy menu,
spot for brunch, attracting Panamanians and foreigners alike, drawing where possible on locally sourced, organic ingredients.
who feast on a varied menu of eggs – with great crispy bacon, There are several gluten-free and vegetarian options, including
French toast, tortillas, pancakes or waffles (most $4–8). passionfruit ceviche or quinoa and black bean falafel. Mains
Service will be slow when it’s busy. Daily 7am–noon. from around $16. Tues–Sun noon–9.30pm.
Fresas Mary On the Volcancito road T720 3394. Great ★ Restaurante Las Orquídeas Av Belisario Porras, at
little kiosk serving delicious licuados and batidos and C 5 Sur T6628 9108. Small, friendly family-run restaurant
fabulous bowls of strawberries with natilla, a particularly in a quiet location with a few outside patio tables. Good-
mouthwatering local cream concoction. Usually daily sized portions of nicely presented and tasty Panamanian
10am–7pm; sometimes closed Mon. home cooking, plus fresh juices and batidos. Mon–Sat
Mike’s Global Grill C 7 Sur, at Av Central T730 9360 11.30am–8.30pm.
Wmikesglobalgrill.com. Nice location by a stream, with El Sabrosón Av Central, between C 1 Sur and C Central
outdoor seating – inside has the feel of a US sports bar with T720 2147. Probably the most reliable of the local
a friendly vibe. The menu is international and eclectic, cafeterías – hence the long but swift-moving lunchtime
listing burgers and pad Thai, falafel and tofu. The Fri fried queues – serving hot, freshly made rice, plantain, beans,
chicken and open-mic night is popular with the US expats. salads and a range of meat dishes, plus usually some fish,
Free wi-fi. Daily 8am–10pm. all for under $5. Daily 7am–3.30pm.
★ Panamonte Inn & Spa Av 11 de Abril T720 1327, Sugar and Spice Av Central at C 7 Sur T730 9376,
Wpanamonte.com. Hands-down the most sumptuous dining Wsugarandspiceboquete.com. This international bakery

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