Page 197 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

The Chiriquí highlands Chiriquí and Veraguas 195
CROSSING THE BORDER AT RÍO SERENO 5
a 35km drive west from Volcán along a spectacular winding mountain road brings you to the
somnolent frontier town of RÍO SERENO and the least-used border crossing with Costa rica. it
is easily reached by bus from david, via Volcán (5am–5pm; every 45min–1hr; 2hr 30min). The last
return bus to david leaves río sereno at 5pm, passing through Volcán after 1hr 10min. Buses leave
río sereno from close to the T-junction at the entrance to the town. Panamanian immigration
(daily 8am–5pm; T722 8054) is 400m from the bus stop, by the police station (look for the flag);
the Costa Rican immigration office (same hours) is next door. don’t forget that whether
entering Panama or Costa rica you’ll need to get an exit stamp from immigration in the country
you are leaving and an entry stamp from immigration in the country you are entering; you will
also need to show proof of onward travel and financial solvency. should you get stranded here for
the night, the town’s lone accommodation, the Posada Los Andes (T722 8112) on the main
square can provide you with a rudimentary room in a fairly rickety building for $20.

reason to make this spectacular drive is to visit a couple of places favoured by nature
lovers. Mount Totumas, which abuts Parque Internacional Amistad, is a private reserve
tucked away in cloud forest, 7km north of the Río Sereno road, some 10km west of
Volcán; it boasts a range of lodgings and trails that make the most of the spectacular
natural surroundings. A further 17km west lies Finca Hartmann, a birding hot spot and
charming coffee estate, which also offers delightful back-to-nature lodgings.
Finca Hartmann
Santa Clara • Coffee tours, in Spanish or English (1hr 15min) $15; trail access for day-visitors $15 • T6450 1853, Wfincahartmann.com •
Any David–Río Sereno bus (via Volcán) can drop you at the entrance, which is signposted – if you are driving, the 1km drive up a dirt track
from the entrance is best undertaken in a high-clearance vehicle, or 4WD
A family-run, ecofriendly coffee estate, Finca Hartmann has recorded more than 280
species of bird – it’s the best place in Panama to see the dazzling turquoise cotinga and
fiery-billed aracari – as well as 62 different mammals. Birds are most easily spotted
round the main farm at Palo Verde, where the coffee roasting and other operations take
place. Taking a coffee tour (best during harvesting season, Oct–March) also allows you
to stroll the five trails on the estate, one of which leads up to Amistad park (see p.197).
aCCOMMOdaTiOn The rOad TO ríO serenO
★ Mount Totumas 18km northwest of Volcán T6963 (followed by a a 2hr 30min hike). Two-night minimum stay.
5069, Wmounttotumas.com. A special place in a fabulous Homestead $74, Bellbird Lodge $150
setting, surrounded by cloud forest, with three glorious ★ Ojo de Agua Cabañas Finca Hartmann, Santa Clara
lodgings, made predominantly of wood, to suit a range of T6450 1853, Wfincahartmann.com. The finca’s two
budgets. The three economy rooms in the Homestead share a rustic cabins are tucked away in the forest. The smaller one-
bathroom, kitchen and cosy living area; the self-catering two- bedroom cabaña is cosier, with a kitchenette, whereas the
storey Cabin sleeps up to seven; and the Bellbird Lodge boasts larger six-bedroom two-storey cabin with full kitchen and
three rooms, two suites – all with vast windows and skylights fireplace is more of a bunkhouse, accommodating up to ten
– and a fine-dining restaurant open to all guests. All have people ($140 for up to four, plus $10/person). Both have
plenty of deck and hammock space from which to admire the hot-water showers (though neither has electricity – gas
breathtaking views and the iridescent hummingbirds; a vast lamps and candles are used) and are regularly visited by
network of trails to waterfalls, thermal springs and mountains howler and white-faced capuchin monkeys. A sturdy 4WD
await the more active. Access via high-clearance 4WD, or from is necessary for access, or you can arrange transfers. Cabaña
Volcán a $60 transfer (one way), or local bus to Los Pozos $90, bunkhouse for four $180

Cerro Punta and around
Shortly after leaving Volcán, the road to Cerro Punta starts to twist and turn, threading
its way up a mist-filled ravine. The Río Chiriquí Viejo gushes through, flanked by almost
vertical pine-clad slopes dotted with alpine chalets, some established by early European

178-215_Panama_3_Ch5.indd 195 30/06/17 11:51 am