Page 207 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

Santiago and the central highlandS Chiriquí and Veraguas 205
STAYING WITH THE NGÄBE IN SOLOY 5
though the Ngäbe are Panama’s most numerous indigenous citizens by far, they see
considerably fewer tourists than the guna or emberá, and are understandably wary of outsiders
given the recent history of conflict – sometimes violent – with both the Panamanian authorities
and international mining and hydroelectric power corporations. arranging a homestay in the
mountain community of Soloy (Wcomarcangobebugle.com), in the southwest corner of the
comarca ngäbe-Buglé provides a unique opportunity to begin to learn about the ngäbe, their
traditions and their present-day challenges, though you’ll need some Spanish to make the most
of it, and be prepared for very rudimentary lodgings and simple food. the village itself has no
nucleus, but rather is strung out several kilometres along the main road and the río Soloy. the
river, and the even more powerful río Fonseca into which it flows, are crucial to community life
and are also the basis for tourist activities (most around $15–20/person), such as waterfall
visits and rafting; visitors can also go hiking (40min–6hr) or horseriding and learn the processes
of extracting plant fibres and mixing natural dyes to make a traditional kri (string bag).
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By bus Buses leave David’s main bus terminal for Soloy heading north for Soloy (approximately every 30min).
approximately every hour when full (7am–7pm; 1hr The last bus returning to David leaves Soloy at around
30min); alternatively take a bus bound for Horconcitos 4pm. Where you get off in the village depends on where
and get off at the turn-off south to Horconcitos from the you have agreed to meet your guide.
Intermericana, where you can hop on a pickup truck
ACCOMMODATION
Homestays Homestays are currently only arranged by a Juan Carlos Bejerano (T6638 0944, Ecarlito559
handful of families as many in the community remain @hotmail.com); alternatively get in touch with Adan
suspicious of tourists and tourism. Contact tourist Bejerano (T6468 5249), or just turn up. Accommodation
coordinator and experienced whitewater rafting guide, is usually $10/person/night plus $4–5/meal.

aCCOMMOdaTiOn and eaTing
Casa Laguna Las Lajas lagoon; turn left just before the T-junction T6790 1972, Wlaslajasbeachresort.com.
beach T-junction T6896 0882, Wcasalagunapanama Set back from the beach, a dozen expansive, tiled,
.com. Situated on the wildlife-rich lagoon, this restful B&B minimally furnished rooms (one with wheelchair access)
has three brightly painted and cheerful en-suite rooms with look onto the lawn through floor-to-ceiling windows. The
fan – one of them sleeps four, with a private patio overlooking two upstairs suites have spectacular sea views from the
the garden ($88). Curl up with a book in a hammock or head balcony and there’s a large pool and bar-restaurant serving
for the beach. Simple but tasty Italian home-cooking at moderately priced American-style food. $176
reasonable rates. Two-night minimum stay. $60 La Pepita de Marañon C Principal, north end of Las Lajas
Johnny Fiestas Just off the beach; turn left at the village T6225 2027, Wlapepitapanama.com. Small B&B,
T-junction T6240 4728, Wfacebook.com/johnny a 20min drive from the beach ($5 for transfers), run by a
fiestaslaslajas. Small hostel with a garden. Stay in a dorm young, dog-loving Italian couple. There’s a quirky “glass house”
bunk or a dome tent kitted out with electricity, fan and double room featuring creative use of recycled bottles in the
camp beds. The vibe is relaxed, with hammocks galore and stonework and a two-storey room with two double beds that
sport on TV, plus board games to play and surfboards to can sleep up to four ($79). They offer inexpensive tours to
rent. Fast wi-fi. Camping $8, dorm $12 Ngäbe communities and the interior. $49
Las Lajas Beach Resort On the beach; turn right at the

Santiago and the central highlands
The administrative, economic and cultural capital of Veraguas province, SANTIAGO
is a bustling centre of around forty thousand inhabitants. Founded in its present
location in 1637, and previously of great agricultural importance, it is now a thriving
commercial hub – evidenced by the proliferation of banks and a state-of-the-art
baseball stadium. Situated almost halfway between Panama City and David, Santiago

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