Page 206 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

204 Chiriquí and Veraguas Playa las lajas and around
5 your spacious bungalow, or from your private porch or your you’ll share with the eponymous howler monkeys –
luxurious bathroom. Stylish rooms have a contemporary affording serene sea views. There’s a handful of small dome
feel, and include all the comforts (a/c, satellite TV, minibar); tents with mattress, sheets and fan, plus a couple of rustic
some even have a private outdoor hot tub. The pleasant wooden cabins (one semi-open), and a larger stone
open-air restaurant is set round an infinity pool and there bungalow – facing the sea. All share a well-equipped
are a variety of inland or water-based activities to choose kitchen and sea-facing dining patio, plus ablution block
from. Breakfast included. Promotions and low-season and BBQ hearth. Apart from beer and water, you need to
discounts are substantial. $208 bring all supplies with you. Kayaks for rent. Camping $11,
Cala Mia Isla Boca Brava T851 0059, cabins $38, bungalow $66
Wboutiquehotelcalamia.com. A sophisticated yet rustic Isla Paridita Isla Paridita T6464 2510,
retreat comprising eleven a/c bungalows, each with a Wexpeditionpanama.com. Tranquil eco-getaway on a
gorgeous private rancho looking out to sea. The lovely bar- gorgeous private island with beaches, rainforest trails and
restaurant deck serves gourmet Mediterranean cuisine – freshwater lagoons, offering simple open-sided bamboo-
the three-course dinners ($32) use organic garden produce. and-thatch cabañas (fans, solar energy) alongside
Boat rides, horseriding and a visit to a Ngäbe community communal gourmet dining. Rates include all meals, use of
can be arranged, and there’s a small spa. Breakfast and use kayaks and snorkel gear plus one boat tour and guided
of kayaks included. $209 hike; scuba diving and sport fishing can be arranged.
★ Hotel Boca Brava Isla Boca Brava T851 0017, Return transfer from Boca Chica $60. $290
Whotelbocabrava.com. Possessing simple tiled rooms Pacific Bay Resort Punta Bejuco T6678 1000,
with fan or a/c, and private or shared (for $10 less) Wpacificbayresort.net. There’s an unequalled
bathroom, this long-standing retreat offers an affordable panorama of the bay from the hilltop bar-dining area,
rub with nature. Awake to the cries of howler monkeys, and though you’ll earn your food hiking up there from the
stroll along to the modest beach. The cliff-top bar- four well-spaced, solar-powered, wood-furnished duplex
restaurant (daily 7.30am–10pm) serves excellent food at cabins. Set on an extensive forested headland with three
reasonable rates (from $7) and inexpensive drinks. beaches, and coves to explore by kayak, this is a
Minimum two-night stay. $60 wonderfully relaxing resort, and is only open two weeks
Howler’s Bay Hotel Isla Boca Brava T6740 8812, per month to minimize the environmental impact. Meals
Wfacebook.com/islabocabrava.com. This is by no are included in the room rates; horseriding and
stretch of the imagination a hotel, but instead an informal moderately priced boat excursions are also on offer.
camping spot in a delightful forested location – which Return transfer from Boca Chica $60–70. $146

Playa Las Lajas and around
The impressive broad belt of flat tan-coloured sand of Playa Las Lajas is by far the
most popular weekend beach destination for urbanites from David (81km) and even
Santiago (124km) in need of sand, sea and surf. However, since the beach, backed by
wafting palms, stretches for kilometres both ways, there’s plenty of space to escape the
crowds – except over the weekends leading up to Carnaval, when you can expect
all-night partying on the sands. The benign waves are more suited to body surfing
and playing around in than serious surfing.
If you are interested in Ngäbe or Buglé culture, you should take time to visit the
major communities of San Félix and Tolé north of the Interamericana; the latter, which
lies east close to the border with Veraguas, is noted for its handicrafts – the versatile
kri (string bag, or chácara in Spanish) made of plant fibres, or beaded nguñunkua
(necklace, or chaquira in Spanish) – many sold at stalls along the Interamericana
close to the turn-off. For a homestay experience, head for Soloy (see box opposite).
arriVaL and deParTure PLaYa Las LaJas and arOund
By bus and taxi Although there are direct buses to La Cruce de San Félix, 68km east of David (1hr). You are
Lajas village from David (5 daily; 1hr 30min), most likely to find a taxi at the petrol station at the junction
visitors heading to the beach take one of the more that can take you the 12km to the beach ($8 one way;
frequent buses from David bound for Tolé or San Félix $5–6 from the village); make sure to get a contact
(every 20–30min) and get off at the busy intersection, El number for your return trip.

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