Page 211 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

Santiago and the central highlandS Chiriquí and Veraguas 209
Two of the most pleasurable activities in the area, given the magnificent scenery, are 5
horseriding and tubing, floating down the nearby river for more than an hour, gliding
past kingfishers, herons and egrets.
arriVaL and inFOrMaTiOn sanTa FÉ
By bus Santa Fé is served by buses from the main terminal Fundación Héctor Gallego Up the hill from Hostal La
in Santiago (5am–7pm; every 30min; 1hr). For the return Qhia (Mon–Sat 8am–4pm; T954 0737). This community
trip they leave from outside the village bus terminal. development organization can fix up a tour of the coffee
On foot Though hilly, Santa Fé is easily explored on foot. cooperative (in Spanish) and offers internet access (75¢/hr).
aCTiViTies and guides
Farm tour The organic Finca de María y Chong (T6525 the four-day trek to the Caribbean – though you’ll need to
4832) can, given notice, happily show you round their take a tent or hammock to sleep in. Other guides charge
small-scale operation – growing citrus fruits, orchids, around $20–25/person/day depending on numbers; ask
green vegetables and coffee – before serving a farmhouse your lodging or contact the tourism cooperative coordinator,
lunch ($8 including lunch). Hernán Aguilar, at Fonda Hermanos Pineda (see below).
Hiking The experienced and extremely knowledgeable Horseriding Contact César Miranda (T6792 0571,
Edgar Toribio (contactable at the Hotel Santa Fé or on Waventurascesamo.blogspot.co.uk; $60 for two).
T6121 4286, Eedgar_toribio@yahoo.es) comes highly Tubing Ask your accommodation to organize, or ask for
recommended for hiking and wildlife trips; he generally directions to the house of William Abrega (T6583 5944;
charges around $40/person for a full-day tour, such as to $8, life jacket provided), whom it’s well worth employing
Cerro Tute. Fit, adventurous travellers should enquire about to show you the best line into the occasional rapids.
aCCOMMOdaTiOn
All accommodation reviewed here can provide home-made maps of the area for local self-guided walks to waterfalls, and
can organize guides for horseriding and more strenuous hikes further afield.
★ Coffee Mountain Inn 500m downhill on the right- semi-open kitchen, and four private rooms (three with
hand turn before the bus terminal T6988 0921, shared hot-water bathrooms), so book ahead. A lovely
Wcoffeemountaininn.com. Set in lovely grounds this hammock-strewn balcony and rancho complete the
beautifully appointed lodge offers six options, ranging tranquil scene – the cockerels less so. Free morning coffee,
from a simple compact double with fan, via more luxurious plus sketch maps of local hikes. Dorm $12, doubles $40
doubles with a/c and cable TV, to an apartment with Hotel Santa Fé Main road T954 0941,
kitchenette and wraparound balcony. Breakfast, included Whotelsantafepanama.com. Perched on the hillside
in the rates, is served on your private terrace. Discounts for 500m from the village, this place has for years attracted
online bookings and long-term stays. $89 weekenders fleeing the city in search of fresh mountain air
★ Hostal La Qhia 50m from the bus terminal T954 and relaxation. No-frills rooms sleep two to five people,
0903, Wpanamamountainhouse.com. Set in a lush with cold-water showers (hot water, a/c and cable TV cost
garden, this efficient chalet-style hostel has a relaxed, extra); they’re clean and cheap, though a bit dull, and they
bohemian feel. It has just one six-bed dorm, with adjoining could do with a coat of paint. On-site bar-restaurant. $28
eaTing
★ Anachoreo Left after the bus station and first right Fonda Hermanos Pineda Just off the main road near
down a dirt road T6911 4848. The rather unatmospheric, the bus station T954 0777. Really friendly local
cavernous dining room is more than compensated for by restaurant serving mains from around $6. Try the picadas
the delicious Cambodian cuisine – stir-fried vegetables, – a sampler platter of deep-fried local favourites chicken,
chicken ginger and fish amok ($8–14), for example – using pork, hojaldres, empanadas, yuca chips and patacones ($6).
fresh green veg and herbs from the garden. All dishes come Daily 6.30am–9pm.
with steamed rice. Wed–Sun 5–9pm. Restaurante El Terminal Main road. Small a/c dining
Café Dorado On the main road when entering the village room by the bus terminal, dishing up traditional fried
T6686 4237. You can’t beat the mountain views here – a Panamanian breakfasts (around $3) and filling lunches:
lovely south-facing deck provides an ideal spot to enjoy generally chicken, beef or pork in tasty sauces accompanied
breakfast, lunch or dinner – soups, seafood and chicken dishes by a mound of rice, lentils and salad – all for under $5.
or burgers – or to just chill with a drink. Daily 7.30am–9pm. Daily 5am–6pm.

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