Page 214 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

212 Chiriquí and Veraguas Península de soná and Isla CoIba
5 Hibiscus Garden 10min drive from Santa Catalina ★ Oasis Surf Camp Playa El Estero, contact David
on the Soná road, at Lagartero T6615 6095, Bortolletti (in David) T6588 7077, Woasissurfcamp
Whibiscusgarden.com. Spacious, brightly painted rooms .com. With a great beach location among the palms, this
with tasteful dark-wood furnishing (shared – for $17 less place offers no-nonsense, fan-ventilated double cabins
– or private bathroom), plus a couple of two-bed dorms (a/c $10 extra), good-value casonas (large, two-storey
and space for camping. There’s a patio and a serene beach wood-and-thatch cabañas) for six ($90) and camping –
and riverside setting. The terrace restaurant offers a tasty, tents with mattresses and bedding provided if needed
varied menu (most mains $8–15), or you can self-cater in a (only in summer). Italian dinners in the restaurant rancho
shared kitchen. There’s no shortage of activities here – are a highlight. Watch out for the river – you’ll need to
table tennis, horseriding and SUP – and a shuttle service is wade across at high tide. The same people run a cheap
provided to Santa Catalina. Under-14s free. Camping $8, wooden hostel in the village. Camping (own tent) $7,
dorms $15, doubles $50 camping (tent provided) $12, doubles $45
eaTing
If you are headed for Coiba and need to take food supplies, you should know that the local mini-super has very limited
offerings – you may prefer to bring at least some supplies from Santiago.
La Buena Vida Main road T6635 1895, with coconut rice (around $12). Daily 8am–10pm.
Wlabuenavidahotel.com. Delightful mosaic-filled ★ Pizzería Jamming Off the beach road T6447 1373.
terrace that’s great for a leisurely breakfast – vast fruit This genuine pizzeria is the hub of the tourist-based
platters or a “Greek scramble” ($5–8) – or a light lunch of nightlife, serving crispy, clay-oven-fired pizzas ($7–12)
salads, tacos and sandwiches (around $8). They also under thatch or in the garden, accompanied by a steady
prepare superior packed lunches. Daily 6am–2pm. dose of reggae. Jan–Sept, Nov & Dec Wed–Sun
Los Pibes Off the beach road T6585 1046. Pleasant 6.30–11pm.
Argentinian-run open-air bar-restaurant (with TV and Restaurante Iguanito 50m up the beach road T6549
pool table) dishing up empanadas, home-made burgers, 7464. This pleasant raised patio is a prime spot to sip a
fish and other meats chargrilled to perfection, cocktail or linger over an intimate dinner. Mouthwatering
complemented by fresh salads, and lathered in home- mains ($12–17) include passion fruit couscous with jumbo
made chimichurri sauce. Mains from $8. Mon, Tues & prawns; or you could sample some tapas – the $15 surtido
Fri–Sun 6.30–9.30pm. de tapas (ten items) is a treat. Mon–Sat 6–9.30pm.
Mama Inés Beach road just before Playa del Estero Restaurante El Pacífico Just before the village beach
T6923 6695, Wsantacatalinasurfpoint.com. Perched on the main road. Local restaurant at local prices, serving
on a bluff with a great sea view – an ideal location for lunch filling Panamanian favourites – fish and chicken with
or a relaxing drink, while fairy lights and music create a beans, rice and salad (around $5 for lunch), and a fry-up
good evening vibe. Tuck into tasty tacos or burgers (around breakfast for much the same. Can fix up boat trips too.
$7–8) or something more substantial; try chicken curry Daily 7am–7pm.
Parque Nacional Coiba
Some say “Panama” means “abundance of fish”, and nowhere is this more apparent
than in the crystalline waters of Parque Nacional de Coiba. The 2700 square kilometres
of reserve encompass Panama’s largest island, Isla Coiba, plus eight smaller islands and
forty islets, but the vast majority consists of ocean brimming with spectacular sea life,
including the second largest coral reef along the eastern Pacific. As part of the
nutrient-rich Central Pacific Marine Corridor, the park is on the migration route of
humpbacks (June–Sept), orcas, pilot and sperm whales. Diving conditions are good
year-round, but for land-based activities, it’s better to visit the island in the dry season
since the trails are less boggy and there’s a better chance of spotting mammals.
The island possesses large tracts of virgin forest, most of it still unexplored, home to
numerous mammal and bird species. Of the estimated two thousand different types of
plant, under half have so far been formally classified. The surrounding oceans contain
countless varieties of fish, ranging from delicate sea horses to vast manta rays, with 33
species of shark – including tiger, hammerhead and whale sharks, though most are
harmless reef varieties.

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