Page 215 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

Península de soná and Isla CoIba Chiriquí and Veraguas 213
Soná (10km) & Santiago (39km)
N 5
Isla Isla
Brincanco Pájaros
Islas Pixvae
Isla
Contreras Isla Uva Guarumal Leones
Mamey
Golfo de Isla Afuerita Isla Canal Golfo de
Chiriquí de Afuera Montijo
Mia station Punta Cativo Hicaco
Isla Ranchería
Ensenada Isla Santa Catalina Santa Catalina
Santa Cruz (Coibita)
Granito de Oro
Isla Gobernadora
Penal Colony Punta Damas Isla Cébaco
Isla Montuoso Punta
Hermosa Isla de Coiba
Bahía Damas
Punta Felipe
Hannibal PACIFIC
Bank
OCEAN
Punta
Isla Jicarón Anegada 0 10
kilometres
Isla Jicarita Parque naCiOnaL COiBa
For years, the island’s gruesome history as a penal colony (see box, p.214) helped
protect its forests and waters, but the colony’s animals (cattle, buffalo and dogs) are
now roaming free, threatening the ecological balance. Incursions by large fishing vessels
(limited artesanal fishing is permitted), illegal timber extraction and resort development
could also damage the reserve, and ongoing negotiations between the government,
environmental pressure groups and interested businesses will have a critical impact on
Coiba’s future.
Isla Coiba
All visitors to Isla Coiba report first to the MIA station at Playa Gambute, on the
northern tip of the island, to pay the entrance fee and sort out accommodation (for
those staying on the island). You can spend a pleasant day just hanging out around the
camp. There’s an interpretive centre, moderate snorkelling in the sandy cove and a
couple of easy short walks affording pleasant views and tranquil birdwatching. Iguanas
and agoutis are frequent dawn visitors to the lawn-cum-part-time-football-pitch
fronting the main beach, and spider monkeys are often sighted swinging through the
surrounding vegetation.
Sendero de los Monos and Granito de Oro
The first stop on a tour, just a short boat ride from the MIA station, is usually the 1km
Sendero de los Monos, though you’ll need to be here early to encounter the elusive
white-faced capuchins or the island’s unique variety of howler monkey. Just across the
water from the trail lies one of the most popular snorkelling spots, Granito de Oro (“the
little grain of gold”), a speck of soft sand surrounded by translucent water, plentiful
coral and prolific fish, including the occasional nurse shark and turtle. However,
smaller cruise ships (Dec–April) periodically stop off here and smother the sand with
deckchairs and assorted aquatic paraphernalia, causing the fish to scarper. The park
rangers can advise you on timing.
Sendero de Santa Cruz
The most rewarding hike is the Sendero de Santa Cruz, which leads from the ranger
station through primeval rainforest, crossing crocodile-infested rivers to the island’s

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