Page 237 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

ArchipiélAgo de BocAs del Toro Bocas del Toro 235
acTIVITIes aNd ToUrs
Bastimentos Alive Sea Monkey, east end of the (daily 10am, 1pm & 3.30pm; 2hr; $55) along seven
cement path T6514 7961, Wbastimentosalive.com. rainforest zip lines and a swing bridge. Transfer from Bocas
Tom and Titi offer personalized experiences, with a Town included.
recommended day’s hike across the island (10km) taking in Scuba 6 Diving Old Bank T6722 5245,
the natural environment and finishing up on Polo’s beach, Wscuba6diving.com. New dive operator offering two-
where Polo cooks fish while you snorkel ($45). tank dives ($80–110) and PADI certification (Open-Water
Red Frog Zipline Red Frog Beach T836 5950 or T6987 $270) and beginners’ taster courses ($75). 6
8661, Wredfrogbeach.com/bocas-del-toro-zipline. Tours
accoMModaTIoN
The handful of lodgings in Old Bank are mainly budget-oriented and attract people wanting to experience the “real”
Bocas; be prepared to be lulled to sleep by ear-splitting music on occasions. They are found along, or just off, the cement
path that winds through the village. The all-inclusive ecolodges elsewhere on the island offer a more back-to-nature, yet
luxurious experience.

OLD BANK spot with single- or double-decker Ngäbe-style palm-
Beverly’s Hill Turn left from the main dock T6323 thatched huts that open onto the sea. Rustically decorated
8013, Ebeverlyshill@gmail.com, Wfacebook.com/ with hewn driftwood, with solar-powered fans and
beverlyshillguesthouse; map p.222. A gem on the showers and comfy beds with netting. Delicious meals are
hillside, this friendly family-owned place offers rustic served communally in the bar-restaurant rancho, with a
cabañas (shared or private bathroom) in a lush tropical games and reading room plus an observation deck upstairs.
garden that’s home to the elusive red frog (see box, p.233), Rates include transfer from Bocas, meals, use of kayaks and
and brimming with birdlife. The pricier room at the top has snorkel gear. The two-storey superior bungalow is worth
stunning Caribbean views ($50). $22 the extra $87. Two-night minimum stay. No wi-fi. $271
Casa El Jaguar 50m to the right of the main dock Casa Cayuco Punta Vieja T1 313 355 6692 (US),
T6374 4917, Whostaleljaguar.wixsite.com; map Wcasacayuco.com; map p.222. A three-storey lodge and
p.222. Owned by local Arnulfo Archibald, who is happy to five lovely raised wooden cabins (for two to six people)
share his knowledge of the islands, this hostal is good value; with private balconies, most tucked away in the rainforest
the spacious over-the-water hammock deck and shared just off the beach. Rates include transport, communal fine
kitchen provide the main appeal. Basic, painted wooden dining and use of kayaks, SUPs, boogie boards and a village
rooms have fans, with private or shared bathroom. $32 tour. Three-night minimum stay. $358
★ Hostal Bastimentos Turn right from the main dock ★ La Loma Jungle Lodge Bahía Honda T6619 5364,
T757 9053; map p.222. A friendly maze of a hostel spread Wthejunglelodge.com; map p.222. On a hilltop
over the hillside behind town, offering dorms, basic doubles surrounded by rainforest, this working cocoa farm offers
with shared facilities ($20) and fancier en-suite rooms with four private airy Ngäbe-style ranchos at modest prices.
a/c, hot water, fridge and private balcony, plus great views. Rates include transfer, meals and some activities, with other
Two communal kitchens, plenty of hammock space and a excursions for a fee. Gourmet cuisine, with ingredients from
mellow vibe. Excellent value. Dorms $10, doubles $25 the lodge’s organic garden, makes this very popular, so book
Rafael’s House 120m to the right of the main dock ahead. Some costs go to the Bahía Honda community
T6446 0787, Wpanamasparadise.com; map p.222. development fund. Two-night minimum stay. $180
Beautifully renovated, two-bedroom Caribbean house with ★ Palmar Beach Lodge Red Frog Beach T838 8552,
fully fitted kitchen, living room and balconies front and Wpalmarbocas.com; map p.222. Set in rainforest at the
back, one overlooking the main street, the other the sea. back of the beach, this expanding resort offers wood-cabin
Rooms can be rented separately, though the bathroom is dorms, simple, delightful, private safari tents and
shared. Doubles $50, whole house $132 incongruous wooden bungalows with kitchenette and LED
TV (two with a/c). Facilities include solar-powered fans,
THE REST OF THE ISLAND lamps and showers plus a bar-restaurant, beach volleyball,
★ Al Natural Punta Vieja T757 9004, kayaking, daily yoga, massage and snorkel rental. Dorms
Walnaturalresort.com; map p.222. Beautiful, isolated $14, double tents $55, bungalows $120
eaTING
Most eating options in Bastimentos are low-key, with local flavours at locally affordable prices. You’re likely to find traditional
Caribbean dishes such as rondón, a fish and vegetable stew in coconut milk, or pescado escabeche, a spicy marinated fish dish.

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