Page 234 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

232 Bocas del Toro ArchipiélAgo de BocAs del Toro
Isla Carenero
A short water-taxi ride from Bocas Town, Isla Carenero presents a 2km sliver of
low-lying land surrounded by shallow waters and a thin necklace of beach that
periodically dissolves into mud, tangled roots and, around the northeastern end,
jagged rocks, where one of the archipelago’s best surf breaks pounds the reef. Most
of the four hundred occupants are squeezed onto the southwestern tip, in makeshift
wooden housing on littered and boggy ground. Though the settlement is quieter than
6 Bocas Town, which could be a plus, the island has a reputation for vicious sandflies;
moreover, there’s not much to do or see. Most visitors hop across for a drink, a bite to
eat or just a change of scene.

arrIVal aNd deParTUre Isla careNero
By water-taxi Isla Carenero is a short hop by water-taxi the nearest, unnamed, bit of land; $2 to La Playita by Hostel
from the dock beside El Barco Hundido in Bocas Town ($1 to Gran Kahuna).
accoMModaTIoN
★ Casa Acuario Southwest side of the island T757 budget option on the beach, attempting green practices
9565, Wcasaacuario.com; map p.222. This delightful and offering dorms with lockers and surfboard storage
wooden structure, built over the water, has five spacious space, and two (overpriced) private en-suite rooms – all
rooms (fan, a/c and cable TV) with vast windows, some with a/c and good beds. Nice garden and social area, with
with hammock and deckchairs. Plus, there’s a wraparound comfy sofas, sea-facing hammocks and a moderately
deck and communal kitchen-dining area. $97 priced bar-restaurant. Surf lessons available, plus board,
★ Hostel Gran Kahuna South side of the island T757 kayak and SUP rental. Dorms $15, doubles $60
9038, Wgrankahunabocas.com; map p.222. Solid
eaTING
Bibi’s on the Beach Buccaneer Resort, southeast side T757 9543, Wleafeaterscafe.com; map p.222. A gem
of the island T757 9137; map p.222. Popular tourist and of a vegetarian and vegan café ($8–11), in a breezy over-
expat over-the-water watering hole with great Caribbean the-water setting, whose warm decor has Indian and
views. It serves fresh seafood – try the ceviche with passion Caribbean touches. Try the specials: a nutty veggie burger
fruit ($7), or larger platefuls from around $13 – and or a tripartite salad bowl of the day, or go for the smoothies,
refreshing cocktails. Mon & Wed–Sun 8am–9pm. cakes and coffee. Healthy eating par excellence. Tues–Sat
★ Leaf Eaters Café Southwest side of the island 10am–6pm.
drINKING aNd NIGHTlIFe
Aqua Lounge Southwest side of the island booze. All-night parties (Wed & Sat) are wild, but there’s
Wbocasaqualounge.info. A legendary over-the-water something happening every night, from “beer pong” to a
party venue boasting a swimming pool carved out of the games evening. Mon, Tues, Thurs, Fri & Sun 9am–11pm,
deck, swings, a water trampoline – and plenty of cheap Wed & Sat 9am–dawn.

Isla Bastimentos
The sprawling and beautiful 52 square kilometres of ISLA BASTIMENTOS boasts the
mellow, Afro-Antillean fishing community of Old Bank, marble-sand surfing beaches
and lush inland forest inhabited by strawberry poison dart frogs. Most visitors are
day-trippers: some come independently to tuck into tasty Creole seafood in Old Bank
or to hike across the island to the surfing beaches; others visit with organized tours,
which generally cut across the western arm of the island to the much vaunted Red Frog
Beach. If you want to escape the tourist scene in Bocas, Bastimentos is a good place to
hang out and the place where you’re most likely to hear Guari-Guari, English patois
embellished with Spanish and Ngäbere.
The island’s two Ngäbe communities of Bahía Honda, in the crook of the bay of the
same name on the island’s south side, and Quebrada Sal (Salt Creek), over towards the
eastern end by Punta Vieja, both welcome visitors.

216-243_Panama_3_Ch6.indd 232 14/07/17 4:41 pm