Page 233 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

ArchipiélAgo de BocAs del Toro Bocas del Toro 231
La Italiana Pizza Bar C 1, between Av “A” & Av “B” by a Spanish chef, in intimate open-air surroundings.
T757 9812; map p.224. Fronting La Iguana Surf Club (see Reservations essential. Cash only. Daily 6–10pm.
below), this is a favourite spot to eat before hitting the Tom’s Av “H” at C 4, upstairs, behind the municipal
dancefloor – try a $10 bowl of pasta or a great wood-fired, market; map p.224. Local Caribbean food for $5–7 (over
thin-crust pizza. Friendly, efficient service and bags of $10–12 for seafood mains). Expect sides of coconut rice,
ambience. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 5.30–11.30pm. plantain and escobeche with hot pepper sauce and watch
★ MK Restaurante C 1 at Av “D” T760 8144, the boats bobbing in the careenage. Mon–Fri 11am–5pm.
Wfacebook.com/MKrestaurante; map p.224. The ★ El Último Refugio Av Sur, between C 4 & C 5 T6726 6
welcoming French owner-chef ensures a sensory feast, 9851, Wultimorefugio.com; map p.224. West-facing
serving exquisitely presented dishes on slates: most waterfront venue affording the best sunset views in Bocas,
seafood comes with the rice and vegetables of the day, and cheerily decorated with fairy lights. The interesting,
including the signature grilled whole lobster ($23). The daily changing fine-dining menu includes the likes of guava
desserts are melt-in-the-mouth works of art. Mains from pork tenderloin, or shrimps in spicy cilantro pesto (mains
$13. Daily 7.30am–10pm. $19–22), and excellent cocktails. Mon–Fri 6–10pm.
★ Om Café C 3, between Av “A” & Av “B” T6624 0898;
map p.224. The Canadian-Indian owner draws from THE REST OF THE ISLAND
traditional family recipes, dishing up excellent curries ★ Paki Point Playa Paunch T6948 6562, Wfacebook
(mains $11–14), as well as juices and lassis. For breakfast .com/PakiPointBocasdelToro; map p.222. Capturing
the eggs vindaloo roti wrap will set your day off with a weary cyclists and tired surfers, this touristy open-air bar-
blast, or choose from bagels and bowls of fruit, granola and restaurant satisfies all, with decent comfort food – burgers
yoghurt. Mon, Tues & Fri–Sun 8am–noon & 6–10pm. (the jalapeño variety is a favourite), ceviche and fresh fish –
Restaurante Chitré C 3, between Av “C” & “D”; map plus great music, vibrant artwork and a vast wooden deck
p.224. Probably the best hot sauce and fried chicken in strewn with sunloungers that spill onto the sand. Watch the
town: tuck into traditional staples for under $4 and watch surfers, soak up the rays or slide into oblivion with a cocktail.
the world go by from one of the patio tables. Mon–Sat Live DJs on “Siesta Saturdays”. Daily 11am–6.30pm.
6am–9pm, Sun 10am–9pm. Yarisnori On the beach, Boca del Drago T6615 5580;
★ Restaurante Guari-Guari 2km from town centre map p.222. This mellow open-air restaurant on the beach
along the isthmus, near the petrol station T6627 1825, is the longest established of the casual seafood places
Wbocasdeltoro.travel/guari-guari; map p.224. The along this stretch of coastline. Enjoy succulent snapper,
gourmet prix-fixe, six-course meal ($23) features some of mahi-mahi or grouper in garlic or Creole sauce from around
the most innovative dishes in Panama, exquisitely prepared $12 up to $30 plus for lobster. Daily 9am–6pm.
drINKING aNd NIGHTlIFe
El Barco Hundido C 1, beside Cable & Wireless; map Wfacebook.com/summerbocasdeltoro; map p.224. Laser
p.224. Known as the “Wreck Deck” both for the illuminated lights, glitzy DJ deck, themed party nights (often offering free
shipwreck by the dancefloor and the late-night state of its body painting and make-up), free drinks for women, fire-
clientele, this legendary hangout has DJs most nights, dancing acts – all on a vast plant-filled deck over the water.
playing everything from Latin to reggae. It gets lively after The dancefloor is heaving on party nights, with a central sea
10pm. Beer $2. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 7pm–late. swimming pool carved out of the deck to cool off in. Occasional
★ La Iguana Surf Club C 1, between Av “A” & Av “B” cover charge. Usually Wed & Sat 9pm until late.
T757 9812; map p.224. This popular nightspot, blasting Toro Loco Av Central, between C 1 & 2 T757 7011; map
out heavy doses of reggaeton (salsa and rock, too), is a p.224. Beyond NFL and baseball fixtures on the TV screens,
serious party venue, with great cocktails and a waterside this sports bar offers friendly, efficient service, moderately
deck. Live bands and DJs at weekends. Mon, Tues, Thurs, priced drinks (including an extended happy hour) and US
Fri & Sun 9pm–4am. comfort food – wings, mozzarella sticks, burgers and pasta
Summer Beach Club C 1, between Av “A” & Av “B” – plus live music on Wed nights. Daily 11am–midnight.
dIrecTorY
Cinema For those rainy afternoons: recline in a beanbag at best-known language schools, both with good reputations
Cine Café Bocas, C 2 (Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 10am–11pm, (weekly rates for small group classes around $225–250).
Wed 10am–3pm; T6549 4158, Wfacebook.com/cinecafe Massage In keeping with the boho vibe of Bocas, there’s
bocas) with a fistful of popcorn (included) in hand. no shortage of people willing to knead your aching post-
Learning Spanish Habla Ya (Whablayapanama.com) surf limbs; check the hostel notice boards and posters
and Spanish by the Sea (Wspanishatlocations.com) are the throughout town.

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