Page 260 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

258 Guna Yala Western Guna Yala
prime day-trip destinations. At other times, it’s worth staying overnight, allowing you
to soak up the tranquillity by a campfire and admire the sparkling night sky.
Isla Perro Chico
Community tax/day-pass $3
Isla Perro Chico (Assudubbibi) – also known as Perro Uno and not to be confused with
nearby Isla Perro Grande (Assudubdummad), or its more populated namesake with
the airstrip much further east – is the most visited of the Cayos Limones, so can be
overwhelmed with day-trippers on summer weekends and holiday periods. It offers the
best snorkelling in the area, around an accessible reef and a sunken cargo boat in the
narrow channel separating it from adjacent Isla Diablos. A further draw is the beachside
restaurant that offers an à la carte menu, though the two-storey cement structure that
houses it is less appealing.
Isla Diablos
7 Community tax/day-pass $3 (waived if lunch is eaten at one of the restaurants)
A short hop (or strong swim – beware of currents) from the midsummer mayhem and
the sunken cargo boat near Isla Perro Chico, Isla Diablos (Niadub) has a thin stretch of
beach with a sheltered swimming area and two pleasant backpacker accommodations
with good restaurants, neither of which attracts too many day-trippers during the season.

Chicheme Grande
Towards the outer perimeter of the archipelago, the large palm-covered Chicheme
Grande (Wichubdubdummad), home to a handful of families, is a popular day-trip
destination. In addition, sailing vessels on the Puerto Lindo/Portobelo–Cartagena
route (see box, p.25) often stop here for the night. Waves thunder over the protective
outlying reef, which prevents rubbish from washing up on the gorgeous beach, and
the island’s relative size coupled with its isolation engender an away-from-it-all feel –
outside peak periods – though it’s not really a place for snorkelling.
Wailidub
Wailidub, tucked away behind a mangrove-fringed islet, is arguably the nicest place
to stay in the area. Favoured by passing sailboats, which stop off at the well-known
bar-restaurant at Cabañas Wailidup (see opposite), it comprises a windward stretch of
alabaster sand, shelving into crystalline shallows sprinkled with starfish, and an open
grassy patch surrounded by willowy palms. It also has the rare luxury of a fresh water
supply. But beware the bugs when the wind drops.

Masargandub
Just off the eastern end of the Cayos Limones, and about an hour’s boat ride from
Cartí en route to the Cayos Holandeses, lies Masargandub. A gem of an island and one
of the largest in the comarca, it takes a full hour to circumnavigate on foot. Starfish,
stingrays and dolphins inhabit its translucent waters, iguanas peek out through the
undergrowth and hawksbill turtles dig their nests in the soft sand (late April to July).
Two family associations from the central isles run camping-only operations here.
aCCOMMODaTIOn anD EaTInG CaYOS lIMOnES
Cabañas Iguadaili Nega T6155 3986 (Ronaldo lunch or dinner) or you can bring your own food and pay $5
Linares), Wfacebook.com/isla.masargandup. Flexible to use their stove. Cartí transfer is $40. Camping $7,
away-from-it-all camping run by an association of families hammocks $7
from Uggubseni that are heavily involved in turtle Cabañas Niadub Isla Diablos T6654 1467 (Robles).
conservation. Bring your own tent or sling a hammock – The preferred option on the island, with its own sliver of
rented ($5) or your own – between the palm trees or in a beach and sheltered waters to loll in. They offer dorm
shared cane cabaña. Meals are charged separately ($9 for cabañas for up to ten, tents (equipped with airbeds and

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