Page 263 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

Central Guna Yala Guna Yala 261
GUNA YALA FESTIVALS
the main party to catch in the comarca is the celebration of the Guna Revolution, which
takes place from February 23 to 25 (Feb 19–21 in agligandi) in various forms around the
archipelago. Skirmishes between Panamanian forces and Guna are re-enacted on land and
sea, accompanied by storytelling, parades and drinking. October, meanwhile, sees the
splendid dance competitions of the Feria de Isla Tigre (see p.263).

patch of island is enlivened by flowers and shells. Avoid the private porch overlooking the sea ($200). All have solar-
back cabañas nearest the generator. Showers and powered electricity. Rates include Cartí transfer, daily tours
bathrooms are shared. A shop sells home-baked bread. and food. $160
Rates include meals and an excursion to Isla Pelicano or
Estrella. Cartí transfer $20. Dorms $20, doubles $50 GUANIDUB
Cabañas Isla Narasgandup Naranjo Chico; Contact Cabañas Kuanidup Guanidub T6635 6737,
Ausberto El Valle T6501 6033, Wnarasgandup.jimdo Wkuanidup.8k.com. Neat and well-kept cabañas with
.com. On the quiet side of the island, this friendly place has shared toilet and shower facilities plus generator-powered 7
three private sandy-floor cabañas set back across a patch of electricity; across the central grassy area there’s a bar and a
grass that also serves as a volleyball court, and three pricier couple of open-sided restaurant areas. Very little shade.
en-suite beachside cabañas with wooden floors and a Daily tour and transfer from Cartí included. $180

Cayos Holandeses and around
Three groups of predominantly uninhabited cays forming an equilateral triangle
provide the archipelago’s most spectacular underwater scenery. At the top of the
triangle, marking the outer limit of the comarca 30km from shore, Cayos Holandeses
(Maoki) are the most remote, yet the most visited, of the three. Effectively out of
bounds during the fierce winds and high waves of December to the end of February,
at other times this chain of around twenty densely forested islands acts as a magnet
for yachts drawn to the sheltered anchorage and shallow, translucent waters. The
protection is afforded by the outlying Wreck Reef, which has ensnared Spanish galleons
and the odd drug-smuggling vessel, parts of which still protrude through the pounding
surf. The resulting bays form clear natural swimming pools displaying a stunning array
of sponges and soft and hard corals – fire, elkhorn, brain, fan – that attract rays, reef
sharks, moray eels, starfish and a plethora of polychromatic fish. At the time of writing,
overnight camping is possible on the islands, but it is not approved by the Guna
General Congress since ever-increasing visitor numbers (and no ablution facilities) is
contaminating the area, which is considered to be a marine reserve within the comarca.

Cayos Los Grullos and Cayos Coco-Bandero
Strung out along the 30km expanse of sea between Río Sidra and Narganá and Corazón
de Jesús, Cayos Los Grullos and Cayos Coco-Bandero (Ordupuquip) – two clusters of
around a dozen or so cays – comprise thin powdery beaches peppered with driftwood
encircling densely forested isles and coral-filled shallows. Popular with cruising yachts,
they attract Guna dugouts selling molas and fresh produce to the visitors.
aRRIVal anD DEPaRTuRE CaYOS HOlanDESES anD aROunD
By boat For budget travellers staying on the inner isles often requires a $30 fuel supplement.
near Cartí or Río Sidra, an excursion to Cayos Holandeses

Central Guna Yala

The main appeal of central Guna Yala lies in Isla Tigre, which sustains many traditional
Guna practices. Forty kilometres further east, sprawling Playón Chico presents an

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