Page 262 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

260 Guna Yala Western Guna Yala
winter (May–Dec). Nearby, diminutive Isla Maquina (Mormagedub), whose four-
hundred-plus inhabitants are less accustomed to visitors, is known for its fine molas.
Isla Pelicano and Senidub
The postage-stamp-sized islands of Isla Pelicano (Gorgidub) and Senidub (Isla Chiquita),
crowned with coconut palms and fringed with strips of soft sand, are perennial
favourites with backpackers since they offer the cheapest packages in the comarca and
stays are easily organized through Panama City hostels. As a result there can often be
something of a holiday-camp atmosphere on them. Of the two, Senidub is the slightly
larger and better tended, though it’s rather cluttered with cabañas. Possible excursions
from both take in the village of Soledad Mirya (Mirya Ubgigandub), which is noted for
fine molas, or the glorious white-sand beaches of Piderdub.
Naranjo Chico
Belying its diminutive tag, Naranjo Chico (Narasgandubbibi) is the second largest island
7 in the area after Naranjo Grande (Narasgandubdummad). It is particularly lovely for its
distinctive hourglass shape, its gorgeous swathe of white-powder sand – from which
you can snorkel – and its vegetation of coconut palms, shrubs and delightful hibiscus
flowers. Several families run lodgings here, but with most cabañas set back off the sand,
nestled in the undergrowth, the nicest stretch of beach remains unspoilt.

Guanidub
As you approach the wafting coconut palms of Guanidub, 10km north of Río Sidra, a
serried rank of twelve smart cane-and-thatch cabañas at the edge of the sparkling white
sand seemingly stand to attention. Though idyllically located, within striking distance
of the Cayos Holandeses, the teardrop-shaped island offers relatively little shade and
the beach is small.
aRRIVal anD GETTInG aROunD RÍO SIDRa anD aROunD
By boat Río Sidra is a 45min boat ride ($20 return) from 20–30min boat ride northwest of Río Sidra, or 40min
Cartí. Senidub, Naranjo Chico and Pelicano are around a from Cartí.
aCCOMMODaTIOn anD EaTInG
RÍO SIDRA share an oversubscribed, basic communal shower/toilet
Restaurante Petita By the main jetty. Serves fresh area, and luxuries such as juice, snacks, beer and cigarettes
home-baked bread and coffee for breakfast, as well as a can be bought at English-speaking Franklin’s “office”. The
decent main meal with dessert and coffee for around $6 at generator runs from 6 to 10pm, when the partying begins.
other times. Daily 7am–8pm. Rates include basic and sometimes small meals. Because of
the larger numbers, island-hopping boat trips and fishing
SENIDUB excursions, though extra, are cheap. Transfer from Cartí
Cabañas Senidub T6945 4301, Ecabanas_senidub $20. Dorms $26, doubles $70
@hotmail.com. Run by a family cooperative from Soledad
Miria, this place offers dorm cabañas packed with beds NARANJO CHICO
plus five private cabañas, and even has an occasionally Cabañas Casso T6562 6620. A new place on a quiet
functioning toilet/shower. Though solar-powered corner of the island, run by a friendly couple who currently
electricity illuminates the pleasant dining area, a generator manage three well-maintained sandy cabañas (one used
runs between 6 and 10pm. There’s a shady volleyball court, as a tiny dorm) – and can string up a couple of hammocks
too. Meals included; transfer from Cartí is $20. Dorms $26, for free – right by the water’s edge. The small scale ensures
doubles $62 the shower/toilet facilities are in a better state than many,
Franklin’s Place T6768 4075. Officially Cabañas though the owners are looking to expand. Food and
Dubesenika, this is a legendary party spot with twenty transfer from Cartí included. Dorm $30, doubles $70
tightly packed cane cabañas with sand floors, a large Cabañas Miro (formerly Robinson) T6769 5801.
cement over-the-water dining room, a dirt volleyball court Probably the cheapest cane huts (three dorms, four private)
and dreamy views of a palm-framed Caribbean. Guests in western Guna Yala – so don’t expect much, though their

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