Page 278 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

276 The Darién anD easTern Panama
SAFETY IN THE DARIÉN
For many years the rule of thumb for safety in the Darién has been to draw an imaginary line
from the Caribbean Colombian border, through Yaviza, to Bahía Piñas and Jaqué on the Pacific
coast, beyond which you should not travel. Rancho Frío excepted, this still holds; however, due
to the occasional flare-up in violence and drug-trafficking-related incidents (see p.43), other
places may be temporarily off limits too. Always check before travelling with your consulate,
and once on your travels, continue to seek local advice, especially from the frontier police
(SENAFRONT) and village authorities.
For a few years, independent foreign travellers were required to obtain a permit from
SENAFRONT, and although this restriction was lifted in 2016, security is tightened up again
after any major incident. SENAFRONT maintains a presence in many Darién communities, and
you will be required to sign in with them and present your ID on arrival.

GeTTinG arOUnD
By boat Once in the Darién proper, transport is by boat, often poleman; find out fuel costs and the amount required for your
a motorized dugout (piragua). It entails waiting around as journey from another source before negotiating a price, and
many communities are on tidal rivers, only accessible at high note that if hiring someone’s services for an overnight stay in a
tide, especially in the dry season. It’s infinitely cheaper, though village, you may need to pay for their lodging and food too.
far less comfortable, to travel in a community boat, or colectivo, Guides You cannot visit the national park without a guide;
already heading to your destination (como pasajero) than to you will also need to hire a guide in the indigenous villages.
hire a boat privately (viaje especial). For the latter you will have Most villages have local guides (around $20/day) who will
8 to cover the cost of the fuel (often for the return trip, even if have varying levels of knowledge about the rainforest and
its wildlife.
you’re only travelling one way), the captain and probably a
ORGANIZED TOURS TO THE DARIÉN
Though customized itineraries can also be arranged, all-inclusive tours generally leave
Panama City (usually Dec–April), and include transport to and around the Darién, as well as
accommodation, meals and non-alcoholic drinks, activities and bilingual guiding services in
Spanish and English. Prices given here are per person.
ANCON Expeditions T269 9415, Wancon Ecotour Darién C Villa Nueva, Santa Fé T6736
expeditions.com. The Rolls-Royce of tour operators, 1807, Wecotourdarien. Working with local guides
with top-notch bilingual naturalist guides, offering and communities, this sound, Panamanian ecotour
four-day all-inclusive tours to its comfortable lodge in company offers several multiday tours including to
the Reserva Punta Patiño, with prices to match ($1065 the MIA refuge at Rancho Frío and a moderately
assuming two sharing), though one night is spent in priced trek across the mountains from Sambú to Playa
the Emberá village of Mogué. Minimum four people. Muerto.
Canopy Camp Border of the Reserva Hidrológica Jungle Treks T6438 3130, Wjungletreks.com.
Filo del Tallo, east of Metetí, off the Interamericana Former ANCON Expeditions guide Rick Morales operates
T264 5720, Wcanopytower.com. Part of the Canopy his own trekking outfit with local guides. The “Deep
“family”, the camp comprises eight luxurious African Darién Adventure” involves two days’ travel and six days
safari tents (with electricity and fans) laden with local, of backpacking and camping – plenty of sleeping in
sustainably sourced teak, on raised platforms that hammocks and eating dehydrated food – from Sambú
provide private observation decks. Aimed mainly at across the Serranía del Sapo, then following the Río
birders, packages also include excursions of interest to Piña down to the Pacific coast. Minimum four people;
general nature-lovers. Eight-day tour $2799. around $2700.
Ecocircuitos T315 1305, Wecocircuitos.com. Panama Orgánica T6079 6825, Epanama
Among a vast array of excursions is a four-day “Jungles organica@gmail.com. Small, reliable outfit that can
of the Darién” tour, which combines visits to indigenous arrange customized budget transport and adventure
communities with a stay at the refuge at Rancho Frío, in tours to hard-to-access areas such as the Darién and
the national park, and a night’s camping in the Guna Yala, working with local communities. Two weeks’
rainforest. Minimum four people; $995. notice needed; minimum two or three people.

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