Page 280 - The Rough Guide to Panama (Travel Guide)

278 The Darién anD easTern Panama The InTeramerIcana To YavIza
EL “REY NEGRO BAYANO”
While his origins and date of death remain uncertain, there is no doubt that El “Rey Negro
Bayano” (also Ballano or vaino) was the most successful leader of the cimarrones and the
undisputed king, referred to as such even by the Spanish. commanding the loyalty of between
four hundred and 1200 followers, he constructed an impenetrable hilltop fortress from where
he repeatedly attacked Spanish forces and plundered mule trains on the camino real. Despite
conducting three major campaigns against him (1553–56), the governor of Panama failed to
quell the resistance, prompting the viceroy of Peru to charge a certain captain Pedro de Ursúa
with the specific task of crushing the cimarrones rebellion. realizing it would be impossible to
take Bayano’s mountain stronghold by force, Ursúa used deceit. Pretending to offer Bayano a
peaceful settlement and half the land, the conquistador arranged a celebratory feast. There –
so the story goes – he drugged the wine, which stunned Bayano and his men, resulting in
their easy capture, thus ending six years of revolt against the Spanish crown.

arriVaL anD TOUrs LaGO BaYanO
Tour companies offer bus-and-boat excursions from the capital (around $150–160), but it’s fairly easy, and cheaper, to
organize a visit yourself.
By bus Buses depart from Albrook bus terminal for Puente weekends) as organizing a boat and guide on the spot
Bayano (4am–4.40pm; every 40min; 2hr), which hosts the (from $70/boat for up to five) can take time: for lake tours,
first of several police checkpoints. Buses from Yaviza and contact Noy Ortega (T6959 6833, prefers 24hr notice),
8 Metetí can also drop you off at the bridge. who has a house by the bridge, or Panama Caves (T6674
1135, Wpanamacaves.com), a local tour company.
Boat tours Reserve your launch in advance (especially at

The Interamericana to Yaviza
Agua Fría No. 1, a place easily missed were it not for the police checkpoint, marks the
entry into Darién province. From here, traffic tends to speed along the remaining
110km of virtually straight (predominantly tarred) road past pastureland, the odd
settlement and occasional teak plantation to the end of the tarmac at Yaviza, spelling
the end of the Interamericana.

Puerto Lara
Five kilometres downriver from the important agricultural community of Santa Fé lies
PUERTO LARA. One of the few communities to receive plenty of technical support and
funding, this Wounaan village of around six hundred people has a functioning fishing
association and a computer centre, and produces high-quality crafts (see Wpuertolara
.com). Though both Emberá and Wounaan are renowned for their basketry and tagua
carving, it is the Wounaan who historically have been artists and have the greater
reputation; many pieces from Puerto Lara are sent straight to Panama City for sale,
but some can still be perused in the village, where workshops in artesanía are also held.
Beyond the village, boat trips, guided hikes (within a small patch of forest of modest
appeal), fishing and traditional dances can all be arranged by contacting the president
of the tourism committee (see opposite).
arriVaL anD DeParTUre PUerTO Lara
TO/FROM METETÍ OR PANAMA CITY with the tourist coordinator in advance for a piragua ($10) to
By bus and boat Buses between Panama City and Metetí meet you. Boats can only land at La Cantera, a 10–15min
stop at Santa Fé (every 30min; 40min from Metetí, roughly boat ride from Puerto Lara, at high tide.
4hr 30min from Panama City). From Santa Fé, take a bus or By bus and 4WD Alight from any Metetí–Panama City bus
colectivo taxi a few kilometres to Puerto La Cantera. Arrange at the turn-off to Puerto Lara on the Interamericana. Ask at

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