Page 130 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italian Riviera

128  THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A AREA B Y AREA

p La Spezia Limoges enamels, medals and
numerous archaeological finds
The port of La Spezia has been important since antiquity as a from excavations around the
trading centre for produce from all over the world, especially Mediterranean basin.
spices (la spezia means spice in Italian). In the 13th century, Paintings are the collection’s
the Fieschi family transformed what had been a fishing village most significant element: indeed,
the 13th- and 14th-century
into a fortress surrounded by walls. The city expanded and a paintings form one of the finest
second defensive ring was built in the 1600s. This city was private collections in Europe.
lauded by poets in the 19th century, and attracted generations Besides fine works by Paolo di
of European travellers, drawn by La Spezia’s elegance and Giovanni Fei, Pietro Lorenzetti,
attractive position on the gulf. The city, and its role, changed Sassetta and Lippo di Benivieni,
there are two 16th-century
radically after 1861, when the Savoy government began the highlights: a presumed Self
construction of a naval base. Today, traces of the distant past Portrait (1520) by Pontormo,
are tucked away amid the sprawling metropolis. The naval painted using tempera on
base and port are still thriving. terracotta, and Portrait of a
Gentleman (1510) by Titian.
The 17th-century paintings by
P Arsenale Militare general warehouse and offices followers of Caravaggio are also
and Museo Navale are placed at the centre of the worth seeking out, as are the
Viale Amendola 1. entire complex, and so forth. Venetian views by Canaletto,
Tel 0187 784 693. Open 8am– The predominant style is Bellotto, Marieschi and Guardi.
6:45pm Mon–Sat, 8am–1pm Neo-Classical. It is possible There are also bronzes from the
Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 15 Aug, to visit parts of the base, 16th and 17th centuries.
8, 24–26 Dec. & 8 ^ no including the old work-
flash. ∑ turismoliguria.it shops, sailmakers’ yards,
In exile on St Helena, masonry docks and the
Napoleon, tracing a swing bridge.
portrait of the Italian The Museo Tecnico
peninsula, wrote of Navale della Marina
La Spezia that “it is Militare is one of Italy’s
the most beautiful oldest and most impor-
port in the universe; tant naval museums. The
its defence by land core of its collection dates
and by sea is easy… back to the 16th century,
maritime institutions and was started by
would be sheltered Figurehead, Emanuel Philibert of
here”. It was not Museo Navale Savoy, who gathered
Napoleon, however, mementoes from the
who transferred the naval Battle of Lepanto (1571). Models
base from Genoa to La Spezia, help to illustrate the history of
but the Savoy government the port; and there is also a fine
under Camillo Benso, Count collection of anchors (around Self Portrait by Pontormo, Museo
of Cavour. 120 different ones) and a good Amedeo Lia
Construction of the colossal display of 28 figureheads from
site began in 1861. The city old sailing ships. + Castello di San Giorgio
inevitably expanded as a result Via XXVII Marzo. Tel 0187 751 142.
of the building of the base, and E Museo Amedeo Lia Open see Museo Archeologico.
from 1861 to 1881 the number Via Prione 234. Tel 0187 731 100. The oldest architectural vestige
of inhabitants tripled. Badly Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. Closed of centuries past, the Castello
damaged by bombing in World 1 Jan, 15 Aug, 25 Dec. & 7 8 = di San Giorgio occupies a com-
War II, and further damaged by ∑ museolia.spezianet.it manding position overlooking
German troops, who occupied This excellent and award- the city. The imposing fortifi-
the site between 1943 and 1945, winning museum, opened cation was commissioned by
the base was reconstructed with in 1996, is based around the the Fieschi family in the 13th
meticulous care. works donated by Amedeo Lia century, though what is seen
Today the structure illustrates and his family. It is housed in today dates from a reconstruc-
how the designer, Colonel part of the ancient church and tion that took place in the 14th
Domenico Chiodo, responded monastery of the monks of San century, and from defence work
carefully to the practical require- Francesco da Paola, which was carried out in the 17th century.
ments: the workshops are located restored for the purpose. The Following major restoration
close to the entrance for the museum includes paintings and work, the castle is now home to
convenience of the workers, the minia tures, medieval ivory, the Museo Civico Archeologico.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp181–2 and pp191–4

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