Page 132 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italian Riviera

130  THE IT ALIAN RIVIER A AREA B Y AREA

f Montemarcello g Ameglia
La Spezia. Road Map F5. * 4,600. La Spezia. Road Map F5. * 4,500.
V La Spezia. @ n Via Nuova 48, V Sarzana, Santo Stefano Magra.
0187 691 071 (seasonal). Parco N R @ n Via della Mura 7, 0187 691 071.
Montemarcello-Magra: Via Paci _ Carnevale Amegliese (Feb).
Agostino 2, Sarzana, 0187 600 324. ∑ comune.ameglia.sp.it
∑ parcomagra.it
Although it is not far from
This town on the eastern the mouth of the River Magra,
fringes of the Golfo della Ameglia still has the look of a
Spezia offers fantastic views, hill town. Tall, narrow houses
both west towards the gulf and are packed together around a
east towards the Versilia coast. hilltop where a castle once
Montemarcello does not share stood. Its ruins include a round
the structure common to tower and parts of the original
hilltowns. Lacking the traditional walls. The main part of the
concentric arrangement, it is castle was replaced in the
instead laid out on a square Renaissance period by the
network, echoing the layout Palazzo del Podestà, later the
A picturesque alley in the small fishing of the original Roman military Palazzo Comunale (town hall).
village of Tellaro camp, or castrum. The houses From the summit, alleys
in the oldest part, still partially extend in concentric circles,
d Fiascherino enclosed by the remains of the broken up by small squares,
and Tellaro town walls, are painted in the several of which have a view of
bright colours usually seen in
the Carrara marble mountains.
La Spezia. Road Map F5. * 800. coastal towns – an anomaly in a The piazza in front of the church
V La Spezia. @ n Lerici, 0187 967 mountain village. Indeed, the of Santi Vincenzo e Anastasio is
346. _ Sagra del Polpo (weekend of street layout and the architec- lovely, with views over the lower
or before 15 Aug), Natale Subacqueo tural style of the houses give Lunigiana and the Apuan Alps.
(24 Dec). ∑ turismoliguria.it Montemarcello a particular and The church has a 16th-century
unusual atmosphere, more akin marble door.
These two pretty fishing villages to an elegant holiday resort
of painted houses lie next to than a rural village. As such,
each other, just south it has become h Bocca di Magra
of Lerici. Both face a discreet haven for La Spezia. Road Map F5. * 4,300.
small bays, with Italian intellectuals V Sarzana, Santo Stefano Magra.
verdant hills behind. and artists – a @ n Via Fabbricotti, 0187 608 037.
Tiny Fiascherino situation that has,
has a lovely beach, in effect, saved Originally a fishing village
and the cliffs conceal Montemarcello from at the mouth (bocca) of the
enchanting coves Logo of the Parco di attempts at major river Magra, this town manages
accessible only by Montemarcello-Magra development. to hold onto its heritage, despite
boat. The writer DH The landscape its role as a tourist resort. In
Lawrence lived in the village around the town is delightful: addition to numerous holiday
from 1913–14. this is the southern tract of
Thanks to its position on the the Parco Naturale
cliffs high above the sea, medieval Regionale di Monte-
Tellaro has preserved its original marcello-Magra, Liguria’s
features almost intact, though only river park, which offers
the instability of the rock itself great opportunities for
has caused some damage. The walks, with several marked
oldest part is built on a promon- walking trails. The park
tory that marks the furthermost extends from the summit
limit of the Riviera di Levante: of the eastern headland
the tall houses here had to be of the Golfo della Spezia as
built on different levels in order far as the plain of the river
to accommodate the terrain. Magra. In the southern
The village’s extremely narrow stretches, near Bocca di
streets are linked by flights of Magra, the vegetation and
steps and tunnels. The Baroque the wildlife are typically
church of San Giorgio overlooks Mediterranean, while in the
the sea, while the Oratory of In northern part of the park
Selàa has a lovely courtyard, cultivated fields and A glimpse of Montemarcello, known for its
which also faces the water. wetlands alternate. excellent views
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp181–2 and pp191–4

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