Page 140 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italian Riviera
P. 140

138      THE  IT ALIAN  RIVIER A  AREA  B Y  AREA

       1 Varazze           also a polyptych
                           (16th century) depicting
       Savona. Road Map C3. * 14,000.
       V @ n Corso Matteotti 56, 019   Blessed Jacopo and other
       935 043. _ Processione e Corteo   saints, by Simone da
       Storico di Santa Caterina da Siena    Pavia, and a 12th-
       (30 Apr); Festa del Mare (early Aug).   century fresco, probably
       ∑ turismoinliguria.it  of the Sienese school,
                           with a Madonna delle
       At the eastern end of the    Grazie. A cannon ball,
       Riviera di Ponente, Varazze    fired from a French ship
       is a major seaside resort,   in 1746, is embedded in
       complete with a beach and   the church façade.
       palm-shaded promenade.    From San Domenico
         The town’s name derives    visitors can enjoy a
       from the Roman name of   lovely seafront walk
       Varagine (“trees”), though it    along disused railway
       was later known as Ad Navalia   tracks; various paths en
       (“At the shipyards”). Both names   route cut inland up to
       were appropriate since much    Monte Beigua.
       of the local wood was used for
       boat-building. The town was    Environs
       the birthplace of Jacobus de   Celle Ligure, 3 km    The seafront at Varazze
       Varagine, a famous 13th-century  (2 miles) west of Varazze,
       friar and writer, and later a saint.  is a small fishing village with   for miles in all directions,
         In the old centre, sights of   twisting carruggi (narrow streets)   and is a starting point for
       interest include the church    and a wall of hills behind. The   numerous walks.
       of Sant’Ambrogio, dating from   tradition of painting the houses     The park’s rocky heart is typically
       1535. Remaining from an earlier   in bright colours began so that   composed of ophiolites, also
       14th-century construction is an   sailors could identify them   known as “green rocks”
       imposing brick bell tower in the   while still at sea.  (mainly serpentine) –
       Lombard style, complete with a     The Deserto di   metamorphic rocks
       spire. The Neo-Renaissance   Varazze, 9 km    derived from changes
       façade, in Finale stone, was built   (6 miles) inland   which occurred
       in 1916. The courtyard is paved   from Celle Ligure,   in the original
       in beach pebbles, laid out in a   is another lovely   igneous rock.
       pretty geometrical design. The   spot. It is a simple   Prehistoric axes
       façade of an earlier, Romanesque   17th-century   found in this area
       church dedicated to Sant’   hermitage   Scented daphne, symbol of the   are on display,
       Ambrogio has been incorpo-  associated with   Parco del Beigua  along with other
       rated, curiously, into the town   the barefoot   prehistoric
       walls, an impressive work   Carmelite friars, and surrounded    utensils, at the Museo Civico
       dating from the 12th century.  by a dense wood.  di Archeologia in Pegli, near
         Built in 1419, but much               Genoa (see p86). Prehistoric (as
       modified since, the church    2 Parco Naturale   well as more recent) graffiti
       of San Domenico is famous               has also been discovered in
       as the home of the silver urn   del Beigua   Monte Beigua.
       that contains the remains of   Genoa/Savona. Road Map C3. V      The flora and fauna in the
       Jacobus de Varagine. There is    @ n Ente Parco del Beigua: Via G   park are extremely varied. In
                           Marconi 165, Arenzano, 010 859 03 00.   terms of the flora, there are vast
                           ∑ parks.it          numbers of beeches, and the
                                               Alpine aster (Aster alpinus) is also
                           This densely forested park   common. Drosera (Drosera
                           covers an area of 17,000 ha   rotundi folia), an insect-eating
                           (42,000 acres) and runs from    carnivorous plant, can be found
                           the border with Piemonte down   in the wetland area known as
                           to the coast, east of Varazze.    the Riserva del Laione. There is
                           It is the largest of the region’s   also the scented daphne
                           three national parks and takes   (Daphne cneorum), whose
                           its name from Monte Beigua   characteristic pink flowers have
                           (1,300 m/4,265 ft), which is   been chosen as the symbol of
                           accessible by road. The grassy   the park. The wildlife is also
                           plain at the mountain summit   varied, and includes foxes,
       The Romanesque church of Sant’Ambrogio   provides a platform for   badgers, weasels, wild boar and
       at Varazze          wonderful views stretching    roe deer. Two endemic species
       For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp182–3 and pp194–7



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